Greece - Korina Miller [205]
PLATANIAS ΠΛΑΤΑΝΙΑΣ
Platanias (plah-tah-nih-ahs) was a popular resort until the hydrofoil service stopped in 2001, allowing it to return to its low-key roots. There’s a good sand-and-pebble beach, a camping ground and a few tavernas and domatia.
From roughly early June through to the end of August, an excursion boat, the Africana ( 24230 71273), makes daily runs between Platanias and the island of Skiathos (adult/child one way €20/10). The 100-passenger boat departs Platanias at 9.30am and returns at 5.30pm.
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TRIKALA ΤΡΙΚΑΛΑ
pop 50,340
The first thing you might notice about Trikala (tree-kah-lah) are the bicycles. Half the town, young and old, seems to be pedalling around, and in no particular hurry either. Every September the town declares a two-day holiday from cars, just to keep the free-wheeling spirit alive. Roughly half-way between Karditsa and Kalambaka, Trikala was once ancient Trikki, and home to Asclepius, the god of healing. A statue honouring the mythic doctor stands on a small bridge by the main square. Trikala is an attractive and bustling agricultural centre, and serves as a gateway to the South Pindos mountain resorts to the west.
Orientation
Bisecting the town is the Litheos River, really a landscaped channel with a narrow bridge separating the two squares – the plane-tree-shaded Plateia Iroön Polytehniou on the northeast bank, and rambling Plateia Riga Fereou on the southwest bank. Trikala’s main thoroughfare, Asklipiou, begins here as a pedestrian precinct and then runs south 700m to the train station.
Information
Six banks with ATMs ring the squares on either side of the river. Most cafes offer free wi-fi around Plateia Riga Fereou.
Café Neo Kosmos (New World; 24310 72591; Vyronos 18; per hr €2; 8am-midnight) Has wi-fi and several fast internet computers.
Police station ( 24310 76100; Sidiras Merarhias)
Post office (Sarafi 13; 8am-8pm) Next to Plateia Riga Fereou.
Poulianiti Travel Services ( 24310 36140; gptravel@otenet.gr; Vyronos 37) Can help with accommodation, travel bookings and car hire.
Trekking Hellas ( 24310 87964; Vyronos 37) The office shares space with Poulianiti Travel Services and offers help with area tours, including rafting and hiking outings.
Sights
It is worth a wander up to the gardens surrounding the restored Byzantine Fortress of Trikala. An adjacent cafe-bar overlooks the town. Walk 400m up Sarafi from the central square and look for the sign pointing right. Just before the turn for the fortress are the remains of the Sanctuary of Asclepius. More interesting is the old Turkish quarter of Varousi, just east of the fortress. It’s a fascinating area of narrow streets and fine old houses with overhanging balconies. At the corner of Anagiron and Virvou, peek at the fine murals within the 16th-century church of Agioi Anargiri. Another 200m up the hill from Varousi, you’ll find the Chapel of Profitis Ilias.
On the other side of town is the Koursoum Tzami, built in the 16th century by Sinan Pasha, the same architect who built the Blue Mosque in İstanbul. The mosque was restored in the mid-1990s with EU funding. From Plateia Riga Fereou, follow the river for 350m south. The mosque is on your right.
Sleeping
Hotel Panellinion ( 24310 73545; www.hotelpanellinion.com; Plateia Riga Fereou 2; s/d incl breakfast €40/60; ) Dating from 1914, this restored and spacious neoclassical hotel is just opposite the river and filled with traditional touches, though the classiest decorations occupy the high-ceilinged hallways.
Hotel Ntina (Dina; 24310 74777; www.ntinashotel.gr; cnr Asklipiou & Karanasiou; s/d/tr €40/50/60; ) This smart and airy business