Greece - Korina Miller [206]
Eating
The cafe life in Trikala is centred on the northern end of Asklipiou and across the river in the old Manavika district. For quick eats, head to Plateia Kitrilaki, where you’ll find good €2 souvlakia plates.
Kebob Karthoutsos ( 24310 38084; Ioulietas Adam 5; mains €3-6) It’s worth waiting for a table at this busy eatery near Plateia Riga Fereou, where a table full of lean pork souvlaki, horta (wild greens), feta and cold beer or local wine runs about €10 per head.
Taverna Palia Istoria (Old Story; 24310 77627; Ypsilanti 3; mains €3.50-8) This well-regarded alleyway eatery in the Manavika area puts a slight twist on tradition with the likes of feta psiti (baked feta with tomatoes, potatoes, ham and grilled onions), a bargain at €4.50, and pork chops with a sweet pepper sauce (€6.50).
Two snappy Manavika tsipouradhika worth a taste are Taverna Diachroniko ( 24310 21480; Ipsilanti; mains €3-7) and Taverna To Diplo ( 24310 72722; mains €3-7) next to Palia Istoria.
Drinking & Entertainment
On weekend nights, the idea in Trikala seems to be to tank up on coffee along Asklipiou until midnight, then cross the bridge to the humming Manavika district for mojitos, mezedhes and music. This three-block maze of narrow passageways and outdoor tables jumps with lamp-lit music bars, small ouzerie, and all-night cafes. For authentic Greek rembetika (blues), follow the locals to Aparhes Bar ( 24310 38486; Manavika; Fri & Sat), along the riverbank. At 1900 Coffee Store ( 24310 28274; Ermou 11, Manavika), look for the old coffee roaster at the entrance and the post-1900 hissing espresso machine within.
Getting There & Away
BUS
Buses depart from Trikala’s KTEL bus station ( 24310 73130; Rizargio), 5km south of town. A free shuttle runs from the ticket office (cnr Othonos & Garivaldi).
TRAIN
From Trikala train station ( 24310 27214) there are trains to Kalambaka (€1.30, 15 minutes, eight daily), Larisa (€4.60, one hour, two daily), Athens (IC €26, four hours, one daily; normal €11, five hours, one daily) and Thessaloniki (€11, 2½ hours, one daily).
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AROUND TRIKALA
Pyli Πλη
About 18km southwest of Trikala is the village of Pyli, ‘gate’ in Greek, opening to a spectacular gorge and one of Greece’s more inviting wilderness areas.
At the gorge’s entrance is the 13th-century Church of Porta Panagia, with an impressive pair of mosaic icons and a marble iconostasis. To reach the church, cross the footbridge over the river and turn left.
The 16th-century Moni Agiou Vissarion stands on a slope of Mt Koziakas, 5km from Pyli. To get here, cross the bridge over the river and follow the sign uphill for 500m.
Elati & Around Ελτη
With your own transport, you can explore the once-remote mountainous areas west and north of Elati, including the beautiful Tria Potamia (Three Rivers) area. A scenic half-day circular drive (via the Alexiou Bridge) brings you to Kalambaka. Forty-nine kilometres southwest of Elati, towards Arta, is the controversial Mesohora Dam (see A Fight for the River, Click here). About 10km of this scenic road is unsealed, but is passable by 2WD.
From Pyli, the 40km road north to the village of Neraidochori climbs steadily through breathtaking alpine scenery, passing the villages of Elati and Pertouli. Elati is something of a hill station for Trikala and has grown into a thriving resort with 1000 beds. It was called Tierna before the Germans burned it to the ground for harbouring Greek resistance fighters in WWII. Smaller Pertouli, 10km up the road, has resisted Elati’s expansion. The University of Thessaloniki maintains a forest research station there.
ACTIVITIES
Kayaking enthusiasts come to the beautiful Tria Potamia (Three Rivers) area, 30km north of Mesohora, to ride the waters of the Aheloös River. The popular sport attracts white-water jockeys from across Europe. Hiking trails criss-cross the region; a popular hiking path begins at the end of Pertouli