Greece - Korina Miller [209]
After the austere Moni Agias Triados, Moni Agiou Stefanou ( 24320 22279; 9am-1.30pm & 3.30-5.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 9.30am-1pm & 3-5pm Nov-Mar) resembles a return to civilisation, with efficient nuns selling religious souvenirs and DVDs of Meteora. Among the exhibits in the museum is an exquisite embroidered picture of Christ on his epitafios (bier). The monastery is at the very end of the road, 1.5km beyond Agias Triados.
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Harmony at rousanou Michael Clark
The monks and nuns who live atop the Meteora are gracious, but often appear solemn in contrast to the steady stream of pilgrims and tourists.
But not Siglitiki, one of the nuns who live, work and worship at Moni Agias Varvaras Rousanou, one of the most striking of the monasteries. Her duties range from caring for the fine frescoes in the beautiful katholikon to managing a small museum shop. One woman asked Siglitiki if she would continue living at the convent for a long time. She laughed, saying, ‘Yes, I hope so,’ then, pointing up, quickly added, ‘unless He decides otherwise!’ Siglitiki chatted with one visiting family, pleased to see a teenage brother and sister. ‘You don’t often see children this age still travelling with their parents!’ As dusk approached, she announced that it was time for talando, a word meaning harmony, but also describing a wooden board and mallet used to tap out an ancient rhythm that calls the faithful to prayer.
Siglitiki invited the daughter to grasp the mallet, and together they tapped out a silent measure in the air, careful not to strike the board, but smiling and laughing throughout. She paused to explain the word, ‘something that moves in ta-lan-do, like harmony’.
As the family was leaving, she asked them to wait, returning quickly with a gift of loukoumi, a traditional Greek sweet flavoured with anise. Then she turned to tap out the talando. The visit was over, but a simple harmony lingered, evoking the spirit of the Meteora.
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Activities
ROCK CLIMBING
Meteora has been a mecca for European rock climbers for several years. Climbers of various skill levels can choose routes from more than 100 peaks and towers with names such as the Tower of the Holy Ghost, the Great Saint, the Devil’s Tower, the Corner of Madness and the Iron Edge.
There are about 700 routes in all, covering 120 sandstone towers of the Meteora. The style is clean or traditional face climbing, and rates III or IV on the UIAA international scale. Best times weather-wise are mid-March to mid-June and mid-August to mid-November.
A typical climb averages three hours, and costs start from €40 per person, depending on routes and the degree of difficulty. Most climbs reach heights between 90m and 200m. A beginner’s route takes about two hours on Doupiani Rock. (All equipment is included in prices, including harness, shoes and helmet.)
There are two excellent climbing guides in Kastraki, both friends and both experienced. Contact either licensed mountain guide Lazaros Botelis ( 24320 79165, 6948043655; meteora@nolimits.com.gr; Kastraki) or mountaineering instructor Kostas Liolos ( 6972567582; kliolios@kalampaka.com; Kalambaka). For detailed information and graded routes, check out www.kalampaka.com.
WALKING
The centre and heart of Meteora is considered the Adhrakhti, or obelisk, a striking column visible from anywhere in Kastraki. A 1km butt-kicker path up the gully will deposit you there in about 20 minutes from Kastraki’s central square.
Nearby, on the east-facing side of the Pixari rock face, closer to Kastraki, look for the cave-chapel of Agiou Andonios. To the left of the chapel, in the hollows and cavities of the rock face, are the Askitiria (cave hermitages), complete with hanging ladders and nesting doves. The Askitiria were occupied until the early 20th century by solitary monks, and they remain a testament to the original spirit of Meteora.
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KALAMBAKA ΚΑΛΑΜΠAΚΑ
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Kalambaka, the gateway to Meteora,