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Greece - Korina Miller [210]

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is almost entirely modern, having been burned to the ground by the Nazis in WWII. It takes at least a day to see all of the monasteries of Meteora, so you’ll need to spend the night either in Kalambaka or the village of Kastraki.

Orientation

Plateia Dimarhiou is the main square in town, anchored by a large fountain. Kalambaka’s other large square is Plateia Riga Fereou – Trikalon connects the two. The bus station is on Ikonomou.

Information

Six banks with ATMs surround the central Plateia Riga Fereou on Trikalon. There is also a currency-exchange window next to the post office.

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THE METEORA: GEOLOGY OF A ROCK FOREST

The jutting pinnacles and cliffs of the Meteora were once sediments of an inland sea. About 10 million years ago vertical tectonic movements pushed the entire region out of the sea at a sloping angle. The same tectonic movements caused the flanking mountains to move closer, exerting extreme pressure on the hardened sedimentary deposits. The Meteora developed netlike fissures and cracks. The weathering and erosion that followed formed the towering outcrops of rock that now vault heavenwards. The rocks were conglomerates of many types: limestone, marble, serpentinite and metamorphic, interspersed with layers of sand and shale.

By the dawn of human civilisation, the rocks had weathered and eroded into fantastic shapes; the sandstone and shale washed away, isolating blocks of rock and cliffs. Where erosion was less extreme, caves and overhangs appeared in the rock face.

As early as the 11th century AD, these awesome natural caves had become the solitary abodes of hermit monks. Eventually, 24 monasteries were built on these pinnacles. Today, six are active religious sites, occupied by monks or nuns and visited by the faithful and curious alike.

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Hollywood Café-bar (Map; 24320 24964; Trikalon 67; per hr €2; 9am-1am) Internet access.

Hospital (Map; 24320 22222; Pindou)

Newsstand (Map; 24320 24667; cnr Ioanninon & Patriarhou Dimitriou; 9am-8pm) Maps, books and international press.

Post office (Map; Trikalon 24; 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri)

Tourist Information Office (Map; 24320 77734; Plateia Dimarhiou; 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) Maps and town advice, opposite the fountain.

Tourist police (Map; 24320 76100; cnr Ipirou & Pindou)

Sights & Activities

First-time visitors to Kalambaka will be amazed at the vertical rocks that guard the northern edge of the town. Apart from the rocks, it’s worth finding your way to the seventh-century Byzantine cathedral, the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary (Map; admission €1.50; 9am-1pm & 3-5pm), a three-aisle basilica with superb frescoes dating to the 14th century. There is a bustling morning market (Map) every Friday, next to the fountain and bus stop.

Sleeping

Rooms are plentiful in Kalambaka, though it’s best to avoid noisy Trikalon.

Koka Roka Rooms & Taverna (Map; 24320 24554; kokaroka@yahoo.com; Kanari 21; s/d €25/40; ) Fringed by mulberry trees in a tranquil spot below the rocks, family-run Koka Roka is an institution among travellers, with five clean and simple rooms over a small taverna with a fireplace where lamb is grilled. Generous breakfasts are available (€2 to €4.50).

Alsos House (Map; 24320 24097; www.alsoshouse.gr; Kanari 5; s/d/f incl breakfast €30/40/70; ) Next to Koka Roka, the well-managed and very comfortable Alsos House has a well-stocked communal kitchen, laundry, wide views of the rocks, and owner Yiannis Karakantas is a wealth of information about the area.

Guest House Elena (Map; 24320 77789; www.elenaguesthouse.gr; Kanari 3; s/d/tr incl breakfast from €35/50/75; ) Tastefully adorned with period furnishings, this inviting five-room bed and breakfast is immaculate. Three rooms include a Jacuzzi bath. English, Italian and French are spoken.

Monastiri Guest House (Map; 24320 23952; www.monastiri-guesthouse.gr; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast €50/60/70/100; ) Opposite the railway station, this converted stone mansion is a delightful addition to Kalambaka, with colourful decorations, long poster-beds and light

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