Greece - Korina Miller [220]
The only synagogue to have survived the Nazis is the Monastirioton Synagogue ( 2310 524 968; Syngrou 35); however, services are now held at the smaller Yad Lazikaron ( 2310 275 701; Vassiliou Irakliou 24), on Mitropolios opposite the Modiano Food Market in the former Jewish district.
Other Jewish sites remain east of the White Tower. Two 19th-century mansions here attest to the erstwhile wealth and prominence of Thessaloniki’s Jews, the Villa Allatini (Olgas 98) and Villa Mordoch (Olgas 162). Incidentally, Olgas crosses Saadi Levi, named for the publisher of one of the city’s 35 erstwhile Jewish newspapers.
Walking Tour
Excluding museums, Thessaloniki’s main sites and attractions are doable in a day. Start at the top, head downwards, and go early (around 9am), as many churches close by noon. Sundays, Tuesdays and Saturdays are best; avoid Mondays, when most sites are closed.
Although bus 23 from Plateia Eleftheriou reaches the Kastra (get off at the Pyrgos Trigoniou or Agia Anargyi stops), save time by taking a taxi (€2.80 to €5). From the Kastra, get your bearings at the viewing platform (1), and gaze out over the city you’re about to conquer. The platform is at the easternmost end of the walls surrounding the inner citadel or Eptapyrgio. Follow the walls west on the main road (also called Eptapyrgio); after Agathangelou, you’ll see the leafy, relaxing Monastery of Vlatadon (2; Click here) on the left. See the church here and, if open, the museum.
Returning to the entrance, continue east along Eptapyrgio, turning left on Sthenonos and down the stairs, veering right down along Dimitriou Poliorkitou. Further left, a narrow stairway doubles backwards, leading downwards; follow it and turn left again on Parodos Kassianis to the 5th-century Church of Osios David (3; Click here), which contains rare 12th-century frescoes depicting the baptism of Christ, and holy water from an ancient spring.
From here, wander the labyrinthine Ano Poli eastwards along the small streets. The most direct route follows Fotiou across Akropolitis and straight on Krispou, then along Arolou, back up on Moreas, and a quick right on Amfitryonos before turning left on Irodotou to reach the 4th-century Church of Nikolaos Orfanos (4; Click here), with its exquisite 14th-century frescoes. The friendly, English-speaking caretaker can explain the church’s history and artwork.
Returning to Moreas, follow it south, crossing Olymbiados to reach Kassandrou. Walk several blocks west along this large street, turning south on Agiou Nikolaou. On the right-hand side you’ll see Yeni Hamam (5; opposite). This restored 17th-century Turkish bath, also called Aigli (like the nearby bus stop) is a voluminous, atmospheric structure that now hosts concerts.
Just below Yeni Hamam, the enormous Church of Agios Dimitrios (6; Click here), occupies its own square. See the saint’s relics, the 8th-century mosaics near the altar, and the otherworldly, subterranean crypt, where St Dimitrios was martyred (see Cryptical Envelopment, Click here).
Next, continue south on Agnostou Stratiotou across Olympou, for the Roman Agora (7; Click here). The entrance is marked, with a helpful explanatory board within. Next, retrace your steps to Agiou Dimitriou, and proceed east nine blocks to Atatürk’s House (8; opposite), on your left, inside the Turkish consulate.
Across from the consulate, a block further east on Agiou Dimitriou, turn right on D Gounari for the Rotunda (9; Click here). Gape at its grandeur inside and inspect the ruins behind. Continue downhill to the photogenic, statue-studded Arch of Galerius (10; Click here) at Kamara. Crossing Egnatia, continue straight downhill. Various Roman ruins run down the centre of this pedestrianised street/square, culminating at the Palace of Galerius (11; Click here). It’s worth exploring from within, though you can also just peer down on it from the railing above.
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WALK FACTS
Start Kastra/Byzantine walls
Finish Port
Duration Three to four hours
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Continuing downhill, cross Tsimiski and, at Plateia Fanarioton,