Greece - Korina Miller [221]
Leave the water by crossing Leoforos Nikis at the small traffic light at Agias Sofias. Either see the Church of Agia Sofia (13; Click here) by walking straight until Plateia Agias Sofias, or proceed west on Tsimiski for window shopping on Thessaloniki’s most fashion-conscious street. You’ll soon hit Aristotelous, with its cafes, unique architecture and, on the south side, the large, lively Plateia Aristotelous (14).
Continuing up Aristotelous on its western side, cross Egnatia for the atmospheric Bey Hamam (15; Click here), a restored Turkish bath that hosts art and photography exhibitions. Then, returning to Aristotelous, proceed downhill, turning right on Vlali. Veer into Modiano Market (16), full of fish on ice, tray-loads of olives and cheese, hot-tempered butchers, and Greek grandmas arguing with vegetables.
Continue through Modiani, cross El Venizelou and turn left towards the water on the next street parallel to it, Ionos Dragoumi, through the Louloudadika district, where flower sellers once congregated, now containing clothes shops and a few bars and restaurants. Continue down Ionos Dragoumi and, at the Tsimiski intersection, you’ll pass the splendid National Bank of Greece (17) building; after it, turn right onto Mitropoleos, immediately left on Katouni and right again on Aigyptou. Here begins the Ladadika district (18), once comprising olive-oil warehouses and now home to atmospheric restaurants and cafes.
From here, the tour ends across Kountouriotou, at the port. Enter the gate and, on the eastern jetty, sink into the big, soft couches at the cool Kitchen Bar (19; Click here) for a relaxing drink. Congratulations!
Festivals & Events
Major fairs and festivals occur at HelExpo during September and October. The International Trade Fair is followed by a cultural festival, which includes film screenings and musical performances, culminating with St Dimitrios’ Day (26 October). Military parades follow on Ohi Day (28 October).
The Thessaloniki International Film Festival ( 2310 378 400; www.filmfestival.gr) occurs each November. Cinemas in various locations show 150 or so high-quality international films, ranging from experimental and obscure to well-known directors’ works. The Thessaloniki Documentary Festival (www.filmfestival.gr) is in mid-March.
The Office of Tourism Directorate ( 2310 221 100; tour-the@otenet.gr; Tsimiski 136; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat), near the White Tower, can provide more info on current cultural events.
Sleeping
Hotel rates and availability depend on Thessaloniki’s convention and festival schedules. Autumn is especially busy; the HelExpo (www.helexpo.gr) website lists when fairs – which heighten accommodation demand, and prices – are held.
BUDGET
Decent budget accommodation is thankfully becoming more prevalent in Thessaloniki. Seedy budget hotels, however, remain in their traditional locale (the western stretch of Egnatia, near the train station), despite that expensive international chains have emerged even there. Thessaloniki remains a city priced for business travellers.
Backpacker’s Refuge ( 6983433591; backpackers_refuge@hotmail.com; Botsari 84; dm per person €15; ) This snug, hostel-like flat comprises a two-bed and a four-bed dorm. It’s run by the friendly Nina Delihristos and her brother, Grigoris, an ethnomusicologist and backpacker himself. The Refuge offers a shared kitchen, big bathroom with washing machine, and computer with wi-fi connection. Call, email or SMS ahead, as it’s frequently booked and someone will have to meet you when you arrive, either at the Botsari bus stop (if taking bus 2 from the train station or bus 31 from the bus station), or the Laografiko Mouseio stop (if taking bus 78 from the airport). Grigoris also offers guided boat trips with camping on hidden islands near Halkidiki (Click here).
Hotel Orestias Kastoria ( 2310 276 517; www.okhotel.gr; Agnostou Stratiotou 14; s/d/tr €38/49/59; ) An