Greece - Korina Miller [224]
The posh Agapitos ( 2310 268 368; Egnatia 134) offers a taste of the Continent. Its cakes, fruit concoctions and profiteroles (chocolate pudding with a crunchy base and white cream) are excellent. Try the superlative efrosini chocolate cake, or smudge your fingers on the delicious mini-éclairs.
A veritable institution since 1960, Trigona Elenidis ( 2310 257 510; cnr D Gounari & Tsimiski) is a very rare thing in today’s world: a shop specialising in only one product. Its sweet, flaky triangular cones filled with cool and unbelievably tasty cream are legendary; locals come out with 2kg boxes, but one large triangle will certainly fill you up.
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Paparouna ( 2310 510852; www.paparouna.com; Syngrou 7; mains €8-16; 1pm-1am; ) Built a century ago as a bank, this lively restaurant is marked by lofty ceilings, great bursts of red (like the name, which means ‘poppy’) and checkerboard floor. The creative cuisine includes chicken with peppermint and honey, linguini with aromatic lemongrass and cherry tomatoes, and even organic Greek beer. It makes phenomenal desserts, too.
Miami ( 2310 447 996; Thetidos 18, Nea Krini; fish €12-18) Yes, it’s expensive, but regular folks (as well as Greece’s jet-set) hit this Kalamaria neighbourhood taverna on the water for Thessaloniki’s best seafood. By taxi it’s about a 20-minute ride, though public buses get there too.
Drinking
Thessaloniki’s drinking scene ranges from vintage old-man kafeneia (traditional coffee houses) to pubs and thumping bars. Many stay open till ‘late’ – code for until no one’s left standing’.
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BEER ESSENTIALS
For beer lovers, the Greek preference for indistinguishably bland lagers can cause great consternation. In northern Greece, however, several watering holes are challenging the traditional orthodoxy of the Greek holy trinity of Heineken, Amstel and Mythos. Although you certainly pay for it – anywhere from €5 to €13 – at least the bottles are usually big.
The region’s major city of Thessaloniki naturally has the best selection. Extra Blatt ( 2310 256 900; Svolou 46, Thessaloniki; beers €5-8; 9am-2am), just off Plateia Navarinou, has numerous Belgian beers. Meanwhile, the Czech-run Gambrinus (cnr Valaoritou & Ionos Dragoumi, Thessaloniki; beers €3-5; 9pm-late Mon-Sat) in the happening Syngrou district offers great and inexpensive, handcrafted Czech brews, accompanied by endless free popcorn and cooked snacks, like sausage with potatoes (€3). Beer Academy ( 2310 449 606; Mixalakopoulou 2, Kalamaria; beers €6-13; 10am-3am), out in Kalamaria, has many (and pricey) world beers and full meals.
Further west in northern Greece, Ioannina boasts two great beer bars. Here, the student-packed Presveia (Embassy; 26510 26309; Karamanli 17, Ioannina; beers €4-11; evening), offers around 100 different beers and good pub grub. The newer, spiffier Jazz Beer House ( 26510 27183; Pirsinella 1, Ioannina; noon-late), located just inside an underpass opposite Piraeus Bank, cultivates a classic bistro look, with numerous great beers and wines.
Finally, over in Thrace’s Alexandroupoli, Ginger Oil ( 6977783524; cnr Dikastirion & Souliou, Alexandroupoli; noon-3am), is a dark-lit, standing-room-only bar where 30 different beers are accompanied by vintage ‘60s and ‘70s rock.
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Recently, a new bar hotspot has emerged around Syngrou/Valaoritou streets – the original ‘hood’ of pantyhose vendors, where the secret police also once ran safe houses. Here a bohemian feeling pervades and the commingled crowds spill out across the streets. In summer many city-centre nightclubs close and reopen in bigger spaces outdoors, on the airport road.
For speciality beer bars see Beer Essentials, above.
BARS
Spiti Mou (cnr Egnatia & Leontos Sofou 26; 1pm-late; ) A new bar upstairs in a lofty old building in the Syngrou district, ‘My House’ (as the name means in Greek) was opened after its young owners realised their parties were becoming too big to fail. The relaxed feel is enhanced by eclectic music, well-worn decor and big couches spread