Greece - Korina Miller [225]
Partizan Bar ( 2310 543 461; Valaoritou 29; 8am-3am Mon-Thu, 8am-5am Fri & Sat, noon-3am Sun) Another Syngrou hotspot, this popular place has bohemian flair and gets packed with late-night revellers, from students to older folks.
Flou ( 2310 261 448; Nikoforou Foka 9; 9pm-late Mon-Sat) What the French call ‘Bobo’ characterises this cosy bar on a White Tower sidestreet. Exuding neon and a je ne sais quoi eclectic retro decor, Flou gets packed on weekends with an early-30s crowd and plays a shameless selection of vintage pop.
Art House ( 2310 233 761; Vogatsikou 4; 9pm-late) Up the old stairs and inside the door, enjoy the party at standing-room-only Art House, full of dark curves and Vulcan tints in the arches, mottled walls and worn wood floors. Music is funk and Eurohouse, the clientele mid-20s.
Santé ( 2310 510 088; Kapodistriou 3; 9pm-late) This relaxed, stylish nightspot with Brazilian flair offers invigorating live music, like smokin’ blues bands, on weekends.
Malt & Jazz ( 2310 278 876; Proxenou Koromila) Another live-music haven, Malt & Jazz has mainly jazz, but sometimes world music bands. Call after 8pm to check the schedule.
Elvis ( 2310 227 905; Leoforos Nikis 21) is a waterfront DJ bar that plays more interesting music than most of Nikis’ bars; next door Thermaïkos (23 Leoforos Nikis) is a hipster stand-by that gets full and hypnotic late.
CAFES
Loxias ( 2310 233 925; Isavron 7; noon-2am) When in 2009 some miscreant stole the sound system at Loxias, Thessaloniki’s first bookstore-ouzerie, charismatic owner Ioannis Kyprianidis just fired up the waiting piano instead. Educated Greeks have gravitated for years to this whimsical steki (hang-out), where they might discuss philosophy, politics or literature over ouzo and snacks. Loxias is decorated with wine casks, bursting bookshelves in the basement shop, and photos of Greek writers, Montenegrin princesses and the dervishes of old Hania. Romantics can duck the commotion on the back balcony’s table for two, overlooking Roman ruins.
Kafenai ( 2310 220 310; cnr Ethnikis Amynis & Tsopela; 9am-2am) This new kafeneio, beside the Cretan restaurant Myrsini, impressively revives the spirit of old Salonica. With 1950s-style Greek decor, high ceilings supported by columns and low-key jazz, it’s no wonder the place attracts local artists and musicians.
I Prinkipos (Apostolou Pavlou 22) This big studenty kafeneio beside the Turkish consulate is ideal for a Greek coffee and backgammon.
Kafe Nikis 35 ( 2310 230 449; Leoforos Nikis 35) More stylish than the adjacent waterfront places, this snug, friendly cafe just under street level is perfect for a Sunday-morning espresso. Get a window table and feel the dappled sunlight dancing through the blinds.
The last on Svolou’s cafe row, Verdi ( 2310 236 803; cnr Svolou & Angelaki) has a spiffy wood-trim interior, cosy tables and a vaguely French attraction. Next door, Émigré ( 2310 262 282; Svolou 54) serves good espressos accompanied by crumbly cookies.
Entertainment
While packaged Greek pop and house music predominate, since 2009, live bands have been making a comeback in Thessaloniki (often, in the bars, opposite).
Lido ( 2310 539 055; Frixou 5, Sfageia; 9pm-late) Thessaloniki’s big, mean disco machine, Lido pumps out R&B, house and more. Like most nightclubs, in summer it operates out on the airport road.
Pyli Axiou ( 2310 553 158; cnr Andreou Georgiou & Ermionis; 11pm-late) For a somewhat baser experience of contemporary Greek culture, visit Thessaloniki’s most popular bouzoukia (club), and gape as ultrarich businessmen shower scantily-clad singers with flowers.
Vogue ( 2310 502 081; admission €5; 11pm-late) Just opposite Pyli Axiou, this is a trendy new nightclub playing the usual DJ-driven pop, R&B and house music.
Finally, for you partiers preferring an aqueous environment, take a booze cruise on one of several boat bars ( 6pm-1am)