Greece - Korina Miller [233]
The 11th century was a glorious time for Athos, but destructive pillaging by pirates, Catalans and Crusaders (in 1204) followed. Nevertheless, the Holy Mountain was always reborn. Since founding and subsidising monasteries conferred considerable prestige on the donor, numerous Bulgarian, Russian and Serbian princes followed suit.
Athos submitted to Ottoman rule with Thessaloniki’s capture in 1430, but managed to retain its semi-independent status. In 1542, the last Athonite monastery, Stavronikita, was founded. During the Greek War of Independence (1821–29), monasteries were plundered and libraries burned by Turkish troops. For more than 70 years following the 1917 Russian Revolution, Russian participation and patronage were drastically reduced.
Nowadays, 20 ruling monasteries and several dependencies and hermitages exist. Athos’ modern constitution from 1924 was guaranteed in the 1975 Greek Constitution. Monks, regardless of origin, become Greek citizens, while the Holy Council (Iera Synaxis), composed of one representative from each monastery, is responsible for internal administration. Although only 1600 monks currently live on Athos, their inordinate political influence is often breathlessly reported in the Greek media, as with a 2008 scandal over shady land-swaps involving monastery-owned land that resulted in the dismissal of one head monk and the sacking of a Greek government minister.
GETTING THE PERMIT
Plan ahead: advance booking of up to six months is usual in summer (though in winter it’s easier). Only 10 non-Orthodox adult males and 100 Orthodox men may enter Mt Athos daily. Those under 18 must be accompanied by their father or, if visiting with a group leader or guardian, need written permission from their father.
Pilgrimage intention must be declared in writing, specifying your preferred visit dates. Send a passport copy to Thessaloniki-based Mt Athos Pilgrims Bureau ( 23102 52578; fax 23102 22424; pilgrimsbureau@c-lab.gr; Egnatia 109; 9am-2pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon Sat), near Kamara. Start the permit process there. While you should double-check in advance, pilgrims can also book by email/fax, print out the confirmation email/fax and go directly to Ouranopoli. Clergymen need written permission from the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople ( in Turkey 90 212 5349037) to visit Athos.
With reservation secured and written/printed confirmation from the Mt Athos Pilgrims Bureau, go to Ouranopoli for the final permit (diamonitirion).
ENTERING ATHOS
In Ouranopoli, the Pilgrims’ Office ( 23770 71422; fax 23770 71450; 8.10am-2pm), is on the right-hand street just before a Jet Oil station. Look for the black-and-yellow Byzantine flag.
Officials will check your passport and booking confirmation, and issue a three-night (four-day) diamonitirion: students pay €10, Orthodox believers €25, and everyone else €30. Free entry is granted on a case-by-case basis to the poor, the sick and so on. Video cameras aren’t allowed, but cameras are fine. Travellers with a vehicle can park at the lot (per day €7.50) on Ouranopoli’s south side.
Alternatively, for east-coast Athonite monasteries, drive or take a bus from Thessaloniki directly to Ierissos: get your diamonitirion here ( 23770 71085; info@mtathosinfo.gr) before boarding the ferry.
From Ouranopoli, the first boat to Athos’ main port of Dafni is the Agia Anna, which leaves at 8am and 11am Monday to Saturday, and 8.30am Sunday (€8). The Axion Esti leaves Ouranopoli at 9.45am (€6). The ticket office ( 23770 71248) is on the waterfront.