Greece - Korina Miller [234]
The voyage takes two hours, with intermediate stops at several monasteries. In Dafni, a bus continues to the administrative capital of Karyes (€2.60). Alternatively, take a fast Ouranopoli–Dafni water taxi ( 6974060744), which will fit eight passengers (€140).
Once in Karyes, head to your chosen monastery. You stay free, but technically for one night only in each place. The diamonitirion can be extended in Karyes for another two days at the end. Try to book your monasteries in advance, especially in summer.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
Dafni has a port authority, police, customs, post office, shops for food and locally produced religious items, a cafe and card phones. All Greek mobile-phone networks operate.
For internet information on Athos, visit the detailed www.mountathos.gr, or the informative website of the British-based Friends of Mt Athos (www.athosfriends.org), whose members include no less than Prince Charles.
Karyes hosts the community’s Civil Administration Office ( 23770 23314), police station ( 23770 23212), Agrotiki Bank, post office, OTE, community clinic ( 23770 23217), bus stop and rudimentary shops, including a bakery, and a public telephone. Athos’ two nonmonastic guest houses, a nameless guest house ( 23770 23362) and the Ilarion Guest House ( 23770 23243), are here too.
The monastic community’s northern part is thickly forested, while the south is dominated by the stark, soaring peak of Mt Athos (2033m). Since there’s neither industry nor hunting, monastic Athos is practically a nature reserve. You won’t find monks swimming around Athos’ breathtaking, craggy coast, though you may hear tales of the occasional spear-fishing, scuba-diving ascetic.
Be aware that if you’re staying in a monastery where pilgrims dine alongside the monks, the meal concludes when the simultaneous spiritually edifying reading ends – so eat up!
EXPLORING ATHOS
Monastic vehicles, local taxis ( 23370 23266) and boats operate, but walking is the best way to experience Athos’ serenity. Paths pass through tranquil forests, where the only sounds are the rustling of leaves, chirping of birds and the occasional passing monk, rhythmically reciting his prayers.
Boat travel (around €2), allows great sea views. A caïque leaves Agias Annis Skiti daily at 9.45am for Dafni, serving intermediate west-coast monasteries or their arsanas (assigned landing areas) and returning every afternoon. A less-regular, east-coast caïque travels three times weekly between Ierissos and Mandraki (the harbour for Moni Megistis Lavras). Another service around the south connects Mandraki and Agias Annis.
While in Karyes, visit the 10th-century Protaton, the basilican church opposite the Holy Epistasia. Its treasures include paintings by Panselinos, the master of the so-called ‘Macedonian School’ of ecclesiastical art.
Karyes to the Southeast Coast Monasteries & Mt Athos
For the grand tour of southeastern Athos, and perhaps a mountain hike, head northeast from Karyes by foot to the coastal Moni Stavronikita ( /fax 23770 23255; noon-2pm) or, just under it, Moni Iviron ( 23770 23643; fax 23770 23248; noon-2pm). The latter was founded by Georgian monks and contains a library of over 2000 manuscripts, including 100 rare Georgian-language parchments.
From Iviron, coastal paths or caïques access Moni Filotheou ( 23770 23256; fax 23770 23674). Filotheou is also accessible from Karyes, along a shady path with spring water (3½ hours). Beyond Moni Karakallou ( 23770 23225; fax 23770 23746) the Byzantine-era path becomes a road; from here it’s a 5½-hour walk to Moni Megistis Lavras (alternatively, flag down a monastic vehicle).
Moni Megistis Lavras ( 23770 23754; fax 23770 23013) is Athos’ biggest monastery and the only one never damaged by fire. Its treasures include frescoes by Theophanes of Crete and the tomb of St Athanasios, its founder.
A caïque leaves Megistis Lavras at 3pm for Agias Annis Skiti ( 23770 23320), a hermit’s dwelling. Alternatively, take the wilderness path around