Greece - Korina Miller [235]
Karyes to the Southwest Coast Monasteries
Alternatively, start west from Karyes towards the coast, site of spectacular clifftop monasteries such as Simonos Petras and Dionysiou. The first monastery, just west and then south of Karyes, is friendly Moni Koutloumousiou ( 23770 23226; fax 23770 23731). West of Koutloumousiou near the coast is Moni Xiropotamou ( 23770 23251; fax 23770 23733; 12.30-2.30pm), with comfortable, oil-lit guest rooms. Pilgrims here dine separately from the monks. The path southward accesses Dafni; follow the coastal path or take the daily caïque, which leaves for Agias Annis at 12.30pm, calling at Simonos Petras, Osiou Grigoriou, Dionysiou and Agiou Pavlou. Alternatively, wooded paths in the peninsula’s centre, accessible from Moni Koutlomousiou or Moni Filotheou, also reach Simonos Petras.
Spectacular Moni Simonos Petras (Simopetra; 23770 23254; fax 23770 23707; 1-3pm), fronted by wooden balconies jutting above a cliff, is Athos’ most-photographed monastery. Here and at the other cliff monasteries, standing in the dark under a sky teeming with stars, with the sound of the sea below, is almost a religious experience in itself. From Simonos Petras the coastal path branches off the trail to the arsanas at a small shrine, leading to Moni Osiou Grigoriou ( 23770 23668; fax 23770 23671). This seafront monastery has a comfortable harbourside guest house.
The coastal path from here south climbs and descends three times before reaching the sublime Moni Dionysiou ( 23770 23687; fax 23770 23686), another cliff-hanging monastery especially ethereal at night. Dionysiou’s katholikon (principal church) contains a very important wax-and-mastic icon of the Virgin and Child. Legend says that in AD 626, facing a grim combined Persian and Avar siege of Constantinople, the patriarch carried the icon round the walls and the city was miraculously saved. The icon is considered Athos’ oldest, and though its features are no longer visible, the dark shape indeed resonates with a strange power in its ornate silver case.
After Dionysiou, the coastal path continues to Moni Agiou Pavlou ( 23770 23741; fax 23770 23355) and Agias Annis Skiti.
Karyes to the Northern Monasteries
The path north from Karyes towards Moni Vatopediou, Moni Xenofondos and Moni Konstamonitou, first passes the sprawling Skiti Agiou Andreou ( 23770 23810). Once home to Russian monks, it was largely abandoned during Soviet times but is currently being revitalised. Although it doesn’t figure in the tourist guides, humble Agiou Andreou is actually at the very forefront of Mt Athos’ current cultural and artistic endeavours. The skiti hosts projects by Restaurateurs San Frontieres (www.rsfturkey.org), a leading international organisation that has performed expert restoration work on more than 600 icons and 400 sq metres of wall paintings at a dozen Athonite monasteries, including Iviron, Stavronikita, Koutloumousiou and Dionysiou.
Agiou Andreou has a cultural centre, where artists, photographers, writers and musicians inspired by the Holy Mountain exhibit their works. Like-minded pilgrims or other art-lovers should definitely visit this unusual monastery.
After Agiou Andreou, continue to the coastal Moni Pandokratoros ( 23770 23880; fax 23770 23685), or take the long, lovely forest path to Moni Vatopediou ( 23770 41488; fax 23770 41462; 9am-1pm), further along the northeast coast. Although not exactly unorthodox, Vatopediou audaciously follows the modern Gregorian (Western) calendar. Vatopediou’s sumptuous main church is a must-see, with