Greece - Korina Miller [236]
From Vatopediou, a coastal path leads to Moni Esfigmenou ( 23770 23229). Further on is Moni Hilandariou ( 23770 23797; fax 23770 23108), a very hospitable and friendly Serbian monastery still recovering from a 2004 fire. The humble, pretty Moni Konstamonitou ( /fax 23770 23228) is worth visiting, but the Bulgarian Moni Zografou ( /fax 23770 23247) further north is more famous. Its name, meaning ‘painter’, comes from a miraculous icon not painted by human hands. The northernmost west-coast monastery, Moni Dohiariou ( /fax 23770 23245), slopes towards the sea and boasts remarkable architecture. These west-coast monasteries are served by the Ouranopoli–Dafni ferry.
Next on the coastal path is Moni Xenofondos ( 23770 23633; fax 23770 23631), first mentioned in 998, but probably dating to the 6th century. Its seafront position made it a target for pirates and it was frequently plundered. Nevertheless, Moni Xenofondos has impressive mid-Byzantine marble and wood-carved iconostases in its older, 10th-century katholikon; its newer one, completed in 1838, is Athos’ largest.
Finally, Moni Agiou Pandeleimonos ( /fax 23770 23252; 10am-noon), a bit further on, is a friendly Russian monastery, closed at the time of writing. More than 1000 monks once inhabited this enormous facility.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The bus to Ouranopoli leaves Thessaloniki’s Halkidiki bus terminal ( 23103 16555; www.in-ktel.gr, in Greek) seven times daily (€10.70, 3½ hours). These buses also serve Ierissos (€9.30).
Taking the first bus (6.15am) from Thessaloniki cuts it close for organising your diamonitirion and ticket before the 9.45am boat; it’s better to stay overnight in Ouranopoli. This lets you rest, buy extra food, and store unnecessary luggage.
The return ferry from Athos to Ouranopoli leaves Dafni at noon. There’s a quick customs check, meant to prevent antiquities theft. The morning caïque from Agias Annis Skiti is timed to arrive in Dafni for the Ouranopoli-bound boat. The irregular east-coast caïque provides an alternative exit to Ierissos.
The last daily bus to Thessaloniki departs from Ouranopoli at 6.15pm, and Ierissos at 6.35pm.
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KAVALA ΚΑΒΑΛΑ
pop 60,802
Palm-fronted Kavala, a port town crowned by a hill-top castle standing over a colourful old town, is a likeable place and Macedonia’s easternmost major town. As an important ferry hub for the northeastern Aegean Islands, and especially Thasos, it sees many one-night visitors. However, Kavala itself deserves some further inspection; the grand aqueduct of Ottoman Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent (r 1520–66), a Byzantine fortress and the colourful old quarter of Panagia all repay a visit, while the harbour-front is lined with cafes and tavernas.
Modern Kavala was once ancient Neopolis, the port of Philippi. Its most famous modern resident was the Ottoman Pasha Mehmet Ali (1769–1849). The eventual founder of Egypt’s last royal dynasty, Ali is infamous for ordering an Ottoman maritime assault during the Greek War of Independence that led to the slaughter of thousands on the remote island of Psara, an event still commemorated there every June (Click here). Somewhat ironically, Ali’s former home has now been turned into an ultra-luxury boutique hotel.
Orientation
Kavala’s focal point is Plateia Eleftherias, which has the helpful tourist information centre. The main thoroughfares, Eleftheriou Venizelou and Erythrou Stavrou, run west from here parallel with the waterfront (Ethnikis Andistasis). The old quarter, Panagia, stands at the harbour’s southeastern side, above Plateia Eleftherias.
The bus station occupies the corner of Hrysostomou Kavalas and Filikis Eterias, near the Thasos hydrofoil quay. Public toilets stand near the hydrofoil departure point.
Information
ATM-equipped banks are widespread in the centre.
Alkyon Travel Service ( 25102 31096; alkyon-trv@ticketcom.gr; Eleftheriou Venizelou 37; 9am-6pm) This friendly travel agency in a central upstairs office books ferry tickets to the northeastern Aegean Islands