Greece - Korina Miller [270]
Aristi, the last village before Papingo, features the lovely Monastery of Panagia Spiliotissa (1665), a narrow arched church lined with frescoes, located on the side of a boulder by the Voïdomatis River. The monastery’s philanthropy helped build schools in Zagorohoria during the Ottoman centuries.
After Aristi, the paved road hugs the river and opens onto increasingly spectacular views. It’s all white-knuckle driving as you ascend a tight succession of 15 hairpin turns up to the ledge where the Papingo villages nestle under the looming hulk of Mt Astraka. Look right to see superlative views of the Vikos Gorge.
Megalo (Big) Papingo features enormous stone formations known as ‘towers’. It’s also quite touristy, whereas Mikro (Small) Papingo is quieter. In the latter’s old schoolhouse, there’s a WWF information centre ( 10.30am-5.30pm) with an excellent exhibition on local wildlife and fauna.
The Papingo villages have wonderfully refreshing rock pools, good for a revitalising dip on a hot day of hiking. They’re reached via a 300m path from a bend in the road connecting the two villages.
Vikos Gorge Χαρδρα του Βκου
Bisecting the Zagorohoria is the 12km-long, 900m-deep Vikos Gorge; according to the Guinness Book of World Records, it is the world’s deepest, though gorge lobbyists elsewhere contest the claim. In either case, Vikos is a truly awe-inspiring work of nature.
The gorge begins near Monodendri (1090m) in the south and runs north until the Papingo villages. You can start from either end, but if you want to return to where you started, you’ll have to arrange transport back via the long road route.
The Ioannina EOT or EOS Click here advises on current weather conditions and provides maps and other information. You’ll need water, stout walking boots and some endurance; the hike takes around 6½ hours.
Starting from Monodendri, walk to the 15th-century Agia Paraskevi Monastery for a spectacular view over the gorge. You can descend here, on a steep, marked path. From there, it’s a four-hour walk to the end, from where a right-hand trail leads to Mikro Papingo (2½ hours). The larger Megalo Papingo is a further 2km west, but the track splits into two at the base of the climb. The Klima Spring, about halfway along the gorge, is the only water source.
You can also terminate your hike at Vikos, south of the Papingo villages, where the owner of the kafeneio on the square will drive you back to Monodendri for €40 (a taxi would cost double). Located 5km northeast of Aristi, Vikos has accommodation and excellent views.
Stunning gorge views can be enjoyed from the Oxya Lookout, 5km on a good dirt road beyond Monodendri. Opposite on the eastern side, there’s another jaw-dropping peer into the abyss at Beloi Lookout. To get there, drive 9km on a winding road or go to Vradeto from the signposted turn-off near Kapesovo, and then hike 1.5km along a marked trail at the end of the dirt road; you can also drive, but it’s bumpy. Vradeto enjoys a striking position along striated limestone cliffs. The Beloi Lookout is accessible on foot via a vertiginous rock stairway, the Skala Vradetou, signposted outside Tsepelovo, itself a relaxing base for hill walking and hiking to northern Zagorohoria sites such as the Drakolimni (Dragon Lake). It has a post office, card phone, and good accommodation and eating options.
Activities
In Kato Pedina, the new, full-service Compass Adventures ( 26530 71770; 6978845232; info@compassadventures.gr; Kato Pedina) organises hiking, skiing and mountain-biking forays into the Pindos Mountains. In winter, Compass operates a ski school and trips for off-piste skiing on virgin terrain.
Similarly, in Aristi try rafting, kayaking, hiking and even archery and paintball with Rafting Athletic Center ( 26530 41888; 6942015143; info@rafting-athletic-center.gr;