Greece - Korina Miller [271]
Sleeping
Prices are steadily getting higher, even as Zagori guest houses continue to proliferate, though they drop in spring and fall.
Arhontiko Zarkada ( 26530 71305; www.monodendri.com; Monodendri; s/d €40/60) These clean, snug rooms have balconies with gorge views. Some rooms have spa baths for nursing bruised hikers back to health.
Xenonas Mikro Papingo 1700 ( 26530 41179; Mikro Papingo; s/d €45/60) The 1700 has five handsomely appointed rooms. It’s a lovely choice with real character.
Xenos Vikos ( 26530 71370; Monodendri; d €50-70; Mar-Dec) Only 400m from the Vikos Gorge, next to the lower village square, this relaxed but lively xenonas has a leafy breakfast courtyard, plus communal kitchen and lounge.
Xenonas Dias ( 26530 41257; Mikro Papingo; s/d €50/70) This rustic pension with 12 rooms and a tasty restaurant will appeal to solitude-seekers in the quiet Mikro Papingo village.
Porfyron ( 26530 71579; Ano Pedina; s/d €55/70) A 19th-century mansion converted into an inn, the red-painted Porfyron has considerable rustic charm, with antique furnishings and soft-coloured walls complementing the classic, wood-panelled ceilings. The ground-floor doubles have spiral staircases leading down to en suites. Owners Rita and Yannis provide local information and, if your room is one with a fireplace, will happily get you the wood.
Papaevangelou (George’s Place; 26530 41135; Megalo Papingo; s/d/tr/studio €60/75/90/110) Nice stone rooms and spectacular views, along with hearty homemade breakfasts, are available here. At the central square, turn left on the unpaved road. The hotel is situated on the right.
Hotel Agriogido ( 26530 42055, 6945364484; georgio@papingo.gr; Megalo Papingo; s/d/tr incl breakfast €60/80/100) A relaxing guest house in a restored old Zagori dwelling. When entering Megalo Papingo, you’ll see it on the left.
Arhontiko Dilofo ( 26530 22455, 6978417715; www.dilofo.com; Dilofo; d incl breakfast from €65) One of the most wonderful guest houses in all of Zagorohoria, this 475-year-old restored mansion in placid Dilofo is ideal for anyone seeking total peace and natural harmony. Rooms feature traditional carpets, furnishings and ornate painted window shutters that, when closed, give you a feeling of being inside the warm hold of a grand seafaring vessel. The Arhontiko has a lovely enclosed garden and scenic views over the village’s cluttered slate rooftops. The friendly and immensely knowledgeable owner, Giorgos Kontaxis, happily speaks of the gold pipes, secret letters and other centuries-old mementos he discovered while renovating the mansion, inhabited since 1633. Greek, English, German and Italian are spoken here.
Primula ( 26530 71133; Ano Pedina; d from €70) Another restored 19th-century mansion in Ano Pedina centre, the romantic Primula has a captivating assortment of differently appointed rooms; the walls of some are stone, while others are well painted in mottled pastel tones. Billowing drapes add to the charm.
Mikri Arktos (Little Bear; 26530 81128; kittasth@otenet.gr; Tsepelovo; d from €75) This cosy guest house on Tsepelovo’s plateia is named after owner Thomas Kittas’ favourite constellation, one of many visible in the perfectly clear mountain sky at night. It’s a friendly place where you can doze off in the shade of a plane tree, try the specials at the downstairs taverna, or cook in the kitchenettes in each of the unique and vividly painted rooms.
To Arhontiko tis Aristis ( 26530 42210, 6945676261; www.arhontiko-aristis.gr, in Greek; Aristi; s/d/tr €100/120/140) This new place in Aristi offers spectacular views and is built of solid stone, with lovely wood floors. The baths are very modern and there are other unexpected modern touches such as a billiards table.
Eating
Edesma ( 26530 81088; Tsepelovo; pites €3-6) Come here for pites or mayirefta, right in Tsepelovo.
O Dionysos ( 26530 71366; Monodendri; pites €5-6) Along upper Monodendri’s main street, this is a good spot for a tasty fakopita (lentil pie) or other traditional Epirot pies.
Sopotseli ( 26530 22629; Dilofo; €5-7)