Greece - Korina Miller [272]
Ta Soudena ( 26530 71209; Ano Pedina; mains €5-8) A popular taverna at the entrance to Ano Pedina, Ta Soudena offers Greek vegetable mezedhes, pites and grilled meats.
Restaurant H Tsoumanis ( 26530 42170; Vikos; mains €6-9) Gorge yourself near the gorge at this iconic taverna in Vikos; wild boar, goat and other mountain creatures are recommended.
Spiros Tsoumanis ( 26530 12108; Megalo Papingo; mains €8-13) This hearty country grill at the end of Megalo Papingo specialises in local pites and roast lamb sti gastra (chickpea stew), with fresh-from-the-garden horta (wild greens) salads.
Getting There & Away
From Ioannina, buses serve Dilofo (€3.50), continuing to Tsepelovo (€4.10, 1½ hours, 5.30am and 3.15pm Monday, Wednesday and Friday). Other buses serve Megalo and Mikro Papingo (€4.90, two hours, 5am and 3pm Monday, Wednesday and Friday, with the Wednesday bus hitting Vikos in summer) and Monodendri (€3.10, one hour, 6am and 3pm Monday, Wednesday and Friday). All buses return to Ioannina immediately. On weekends, take a taxi: Ioannina–Monodendri fares are approximately €30 to €45, though you can negotiate.
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KONITSA ΚΟΝΙΤΣΑ
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Carved amphitheatrically into a hillside under endless blue skies, Konitsa (ko-nit-sah) is a lively mountain market town in its own right, and one not without its share of rugged individuals. Kayakers, hikers and river explorers circle their wagons at night here, and Greek hunters too use Konitsa as a sort of cowboy depot. The town’s only a few kilometres southwest of the Mertziani border crossing with Albania.
From Ioannina, Konitsa is 64km north on the national road; past it, the old road arcs northeast on a magnificent route between the Grammas and Smolikas Mountains, to Kastoria in western Macedonia. However, with the completion of the Egnatia Odos Hwy, this road is suffering from a lack of upkeep, and can be dangerous, especially at night.
Orientation & Information
Coming from Ioannina, Konitsa is on the right-hand side of the national road, and sprawls up from it for some 2km. Konitsa’s central square has pharmacies, a post office and ATM-equipped banks. The bus station is a short walk downhill from here. There’s also a small hospital for first aid.
For tourist information, try Yiannis Mourehidis at To Dendro Guesthouse, for more than 30 years the independent traveller’s first port of call in Konitsa.
Activities
Just outside Konitsa begins a gorgeous 4.5km hike along the Aoös River Gorge to Moni Stomiou, founded in the 15th century but relocated here in 1774 from its original location on Mt Trapezitsa. Start at the beginning of the town, where the river is straddled by the impressive Konitsa Bridge. This 20m-high, 40m-long single-arched stone structure was built in 1870 by a local master craftsman, using money pooled from the then-Ottoman town’s Christian and Muslim citizens.
After the bridge, follow the river’s turquoise waters along a signposted trail. The first third is a drivable dirt road, but it soon becomes a narrow path between the water and a steep bank, and then barrels gradually upwards through dense vegetation. The last 1.5km is wider, but steep. The monastery might be open; even if it’s not, the hike is worthwhile for the tremendous views over the Aoös River canyon. Spring water is available.
Sleeping & Eating
To Dendro Guesthouse ( 26550 22055; d/tr €40/55; ) A moustachioed man clad in leather and answering to the name ‘Johnny Dendro’, who trims his hedges with a hunting knife, Yiannis Mourehidis has been a Konitsa legend for more than 30 years, and offers clean and comfortable rooms. The charismatic Yiannis can organise trips to Albania and kayaking adventures, and also runs a spirited taverna. Entering town, look for the UN-like display of flags on the last bend of the road before the main square.
Kougias Hotel ( 26550 23830; www.kougias.gr; s/d €45/60) Right on the square, the friendly though reserved Kougias is