Greece - Korina Miller [281]
Electra Domatia ( 22970 26715, 6938726441; www.aegina-electra.gr; Leonardou Lada 25; s/d €45/50; ). There are no scenic views from this small pension, but rooms are impeccable and comfy and are in a quiet corner of town. It outclasses nearby hotels by a long way. Head up Leonardou Lada, opposite the ferry quays.
Aeginitiko Archontiko ( 22970 24968; www.aeginitikoarchontiko.gr; cnr Ag Nikolaou & Thomaiados; s/d/tr/ste €60/70/80/120; ) This old Aegina mansion retains period features that hark back to the glory days of 19th-century Greece’s first years of independence. The splendid breakfast costs about €10 per person.
Rastoni ( 22970 27039; www.rastoni.gr; Metriti 31; s/d/tr €85/80/110; ) Each of the spacious rooms at this handsome boutique hotel has individual decor reflecting Asian and African themes. There’s a lovely garden with views to the Temple of Apollo. The hotel is in a quiet area a few minutes walking distance from the harbour front. There are discounts for several days’ stay. Breakfast is €5.
Eating
The inland side of the harbour front is packed with cafes and restaurants. They make for lazy world-watching, but are not particularly good value, unless you hit the local unvarnished ouzeries (a place serving ouzo and light snacks) scattered throughout. Local pistachio nuts are on sale everywhere, priced from €6 for 500g.
Babis ( 22970 23594; mains €5-12) Located at the far end of the harbour front, the cool, stylish decor of this inventive restaurant complements its creative cuisine, which includes its resilient signature dish, chicken with pistachio and unsalted anthotyro (dry white cheese).
Tsias ( 22970 23529; Dimokratias 47; mains €6-7.50) Street-side Greek eating at its best. Try shrimps with tomatoes and feta, or crab salad for under €5, followed by pork fillet. There are also simple fish dishes for under €10.
Mezedopoleio to Steki ( 22970 23910; Pan Irioti 45; dishes €6-12) Tucked in behind the noisy mid-harbour fish market is this vibrant place. Together with its immediate neighbour, I Agora, it’s always packed with people tucking into hell-fired octopus or sardines, plus other classic mezedhes.
Drinking & Entertainment
Music bars and cafes along the harbour front have luxurious seating in competing colours.
Heaven ( 22970 28872; Dimokratias) Soft sofas and upbeat decor feature in this popular music bar–cafe.
Yes! ( 22970 28306; Dimokratias) Easy-listening daytime sounds and sharper spins from local and visiting DJs at night give Yes! its edge for a younger crowd.
Avli ( 22970 26438; Pan Irioti 17) Avli mixes ’60s and Latin music and plays Greek sounds when Athenian weekenders hit town.
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AROUND AEGINA
Temple of Aphaia
The impressive Temple of Aphaia ( 22970 32398; adult/concession/under 18yr €4/2/free; 8am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 8.30am-5pm Nov-Mar) celebrates a local deity of pre-Hellenic times and is the major ancient site of the Saronic Gulf Islands. It was built in 480 BC, soon after the Battle of Salamis.
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FLYING FREE
Yiannis Poulopoulos, the director of the Hellenic Wildlife Hospital (EKPAZ; Click here) on Aegina is larger than life. He needs boundless energy to maintain his lifelong commitment to wounded wild animals, which began when he was a veterinary student and nurtured injured small birds in his student flat. Yiannis has never stopped caring for wild creatures. Now he devotes virtually every waking hour to the wildlife hospital in the rugged hills of central Aegina. Here, Yiannis and his many devoted colleagues and volunteer helpers have had many successes, not least the release of rehabilitated eagles into the wilds of Crete and northern Greece.
At the EKPAZ base there are scores of creatures, many of them protected species and most of them the victims of humankind’s desire to hunt and kill with guns. ‘Why do they shoot such magnificent beings?’ is Yiannis’ eternal question.
Here you see the rarest of creatures