Greece - Korina Miller [282]
It is illegal to shoot protected species, but education, persuasion and example are probably the only ways, albeit painfully slow, to stop the destruction of wild creatures for sport. The brutal fact is that to point a gun at birds such as eagles, vultures, storks and swans means an inevitable cheap triumph for the shooter. Such slow, stately creatures do not twist and turn. Once fixed in the sights they are easy meat for just about anyone who can squeeze a trigger. As Yiannis drolly puts it: ‘To shoot a wild bird is no achievement, no triumph. Perhaps they should try video games instead.’
Until they do, Yiannis Poulopoulos and his small army of colleagues and volunteers will continue their work in the hills of Aegina.
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The temple’s pediments were decorated with splendid Trojan War sculptures, most of which were robbed in the 19th century and now decorate Munich’s Glyptothek. The remains of the temple stand proudly on a pine-covered hill with far-reaching views over the Saronic Gulf. There are interpretive panels in Greek and English.
Aphaia is 10km east of Aegina Town. Buses to Agia Marina stop at the site (€1.70, 20 minutes). A taxi from Aegina Town costs about €12 one way. If relying on buses it should be remembered that there might be several hours between services. It can be a hot hill top.
Paleohora Παλαιοχώρα
This enchanting site has had several of its old churches and chapels renovated recently and is a haven of peace. The ancient town of Paleohora was Aegina’s capital from the 9th century and throughout the medieval period and was abandoned finally only during the 1820s. Over 30 surviving churches and chapels punctuate the rocky heights of the original citadel, and several have been carefully refurbished in recent years. Many are open to visitors and are linked by a network of paths. The site is 6.5km east of Aegina Town near the enormous modern church of Moni Agiou Nektariou. Buses from Aegina Town to Agia Marina stop at the turn-off to Paleohora (€1.40, 10 minutes). A taxi is €8 one way.
Christos Capralos Museum
From 1963 until 1993, the acclaimed sculptor Christos Capralos (1909–93) lived and worked on Aegina during the summer months. Today, many of his works are on display at the Christos Capralos Museum ( 22970 22001; Livadi; admission €2; 9am-2.30pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sun Jun-Oct, 10am-4pm Fri-Sun Nov-May) in his one-time home and studio on the coast near Livadi, 1.5km north of Aegina Town. At first glance the monumental works, especially those in eucalyptus wood, may seem harsh and discomfiting, but their fluidity and power are exhilarating. The Crucifixion Tableau is superb. In a separate gallery is the 40m-long Pindus Frieze, a powerful memorial to the Battle of Pindus, in which the Greek Army beat back an Italian advance in WWII.
Hellenic Wildlife Hospital
The oldest and largest wildlife rehabilitation centre in Greece and Southern Europe, the Hellenic Wildlife Hospital (Elliniko Kentro Perithalpsis Agrion Zoön; 22970 28367, 6973318845; www.ekpaz.gr; 10am-7pm) each year treats and cares for anything from 3000 to 4500 wounded and disabled wild animals (boxed text). You can visit the hospital, which lies amidst rugged hills about 10km southeast of Aegina Town and 1km east of Pahia Rahi on the road to Mt Oros. Admission is free, but donations are appreciated. It is best to phone ahead to ask if a visit is possible. If you want a more hands-on commitment, the centre welcomes volunteers for whom accommodation is supplied. Potential volunteers should be aware that the work is hard and unglamorous, albeit hugely rewarding.
Perdika Πέρδικα
The fishing village of Perdika lies about 9km south of town on the southern tip of the west coast.