Greece - Korina Miller [302]
The Industrial Museum of Ermoupolis ( 22810 84764; Papandreos; adult/concession €2.50/1.50, free Wed; 10am-2pm & 6-9pm Thu-Sun, 10am-2pm Mon & Wed Apr-Sep, 10am-2pm & 5.30-7.30pm Mon, Wed, Sat & Sun, 10-2pm Fri Oct-Mar) is about a kilometre from the centre of town. It celebrates Syros’ industrial and shipbuilding traditions and occupies old factory buildings. There are over 300 items on display.
Ano Syros, originally a medieval settlement, has narrow alleyways and whitewashed houses. It is a fascinating place to wander around and has views of neighbouring islands. Be wise and catch the bus up to the settlement. From the bus terminus, head into the steeply rising alleyways and search out the finest of the Catholic churches, the 13th-century Agios Georgios cathedral, with its star-fretted barrel roof and baroque capitals. Follow your nose down from the church, past stunning viewpoints to reach the main street.
Activities
Cyclades Sailing ( 22810 82501; csail@otenet.gr) can organise yachting charters, as can Nomikos Sailing ( 22810 88527); call direct or book through Teamwork Holidays (left).
You can also book a day coach trip (adult/child €20/7) around the island on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday through Teamwork Holidays.
Sleeping
Ermoupolis has a reasonably broad selection of rooms, with most budget options clustered above the waterfront near where the ferry docks. Most places are open all year.
Hermoupolis Rooms ( 22810 87475; Naxou; s/d/tr €35/50/70; ) Clean, well-kept rooms tucked away in narrow Naxou, a short climb up from the waterfront. Front rooms open on to tiny, bougainvillea-cloaked balconies.
Ethrion ( 22810 89066; www.ethrion.gr; Kosma 24; s €50, d €60-75; ) Close to the harbour front and centre of town yet in a quiet area, Ethrion has comfortable rooms, several having balconies with views over the town. The price range indicates rooms with or without balconies and sea views.
Diogenis Hotel ( 22810 86301-5; www.diogenishotel.gr; s/d €73/99; ) Business-class quality is the rule at this well-run, child-friendly waterfront hotel. Breakfast is an extra €10, but is filling. There’s a pleasant cafe on the ground floor.
Aegli Hotel ( 22810 79279; hotegli@otenet.gr; Klisthenous 14; s/d/tr incl breakfast €83/105/130; ) Located in a quiet side street, yet very close to the centre, this attractive hotel has an air of exclusivity. Rooms are comfortable, and upper-floor balconies at the front have great views over the port. There’s a roof garden.
Also recommended:
Hotel Hermes ( 22810 83011; fax 22810 87412; Plateia Kanari; s/d/tr incl buffet breakfast €65/100/120; ) The Hermes is a long-established hotel in a fine position on the eastern side of the waterfront.
Sea Colours Apartments ( 22810 81181/83400; Athinas; s/d €50/66, apt €72; ) These pleasant apartments overlook Agios Nikolaos Bay at the north end of town.
Eating
Standard restaurants and cafes throng the waterfront, especially along Akti Petrou Ralli and on the southern edge of Plateia Miaouli. In quieter corners, however, there are several fine tavernas and restaurants.
Django ( 22810 82801; Hiou; snacks from €2.50) This useful little streetside crêperie and snack bar is right at the heart of bustling Hiou and is up and running in the mornings before most cafes. It dishes out sandwiches and hot and cold drinks as well, and has voluptuous tubs of some seriously wicked ice cream.
To Kastri ( 22810 83140; Antiparou 13; mains €5-6; 9am-5pm) Sentiment should never influence the stomach, but this unique eating place deserves support, and the food’s great anyway. It’s run by an association of local women who cook up a storm of traditional island dishes. They sell an attractive cookery book (with Greek and English editions).
Porto ( 22810 81178; Akti Petrou Ralli 48; mains €5-8) The place with the brightly painted tables and chairs midwaterfront, Porto is a classic little ouzerie offering a range of seafood dishes including crab and tuna salads, mussels and shrimps. Snails figure also and