Greece - Korina Miller [303]
To Petrino ( 22810 87427; Stefanou 9; mains €5-17) Swaths of bougainvillea bedeck the pleasant little enclave of Stefanou, and at its heart is the popular To Petrino serving dishes such as small pork chops with mustard sauce, and squid stuffed with feta.
Stin Ithaki to Ai ( 22810 82060; Stefanou 1; mains €5.50-8) Try the flogeres (pie stuffed with cheese and ham) or main dishes such as tsoukalaki (veal baked in a pot with mushrooms and potatoes and a light cheese sauce).
To Archontariki ( 22810 81744; Emm Roidi 8; mains €6-18) Classic Greek dishes go well with a fine selection of regional wines, including Santorini vintages, at this long-established restaurant. Starters, such as spinach with mushrooms and leek pie, lead on to inventive mains of veal with plums or prawn tails in ouzo.
The best place to buy fresh produce is at the small but well-stocked morning food market (Hiou; 7am-1pm).
Also on Hiou is Costas Prekis ( 22810 87556; Hiou 4) a shop with a fine selection of traditional products, including snails, capers, local cheeses, sauces, pasta, jams, dried figs and liqueurs.
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Eleftheria Des Hannigan
There is a distinctive type of young, modern Greek. Confident, wise, stylish, focused, thoughtful, fearless. And just a little bit scary. They have attitude, in the best sense of the word. On Syros there is Eleftheria Thymianou. She does not let me off with anything. ‘That’s a great name,’ I say. ‘Eleftheria equals “freedom”. What do they call you for short?’ I get the full weight of Greek history in my face. ‘No one shortens my name,’ she says. ‘That name means something…’
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Entertainment
Music bars are clustered along the waterfront on Akti Petrou Ralli. They play mostly lounge music by day and a mix of house, funk and modern Greek music by night. They draw a great local crowd and rock into the early hours.
Heading up the young scene is Boheme del Mar ( 22810 83354), with the also lively Liquid Bar ( 22810 82284) about 60m to the northwest. Next door to Liquid is Severo ( 22810 88243), which has a great racy atmosphere and good DJs, while new kid on the block Ponente ( 6944918748) is a very chilled lounge with all the right sounds.
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GALISSAS ΓΑΛΗΣΣΑΣ
pop 120
When Ermoupolis becomes too metro for you, head west on a short bus ride to Galissas, a small resort with one of the best beaches on Syros, several bars and restaurants and some great places to stay. The main bus stop is at an intersection behind the beach.
Sleeping
Two Hearts Camping ( 22810 42052; www.twohearts-camping.com; camp sites per adult/child/tent €8/4/4) Set in a pistachio orchard about 400m from the village and beach, this popular camping ground has good facilities. It also rents a range of fixed accommodation from wooden ‘tents’ to bungalows from €12 to €20 per person. A minibus meets ferries in high season.
Oasis ( 22810 42357, 6948274933; freri_stefania@hotmail.com; s/d/studios €30/45/55; ) A genuine ‘oasis’, this lovely little farm has bright and airy rooms, and the welcome is charming. It’s about 400m back from the village, set amid olive trees and vines. Follow signs from the main bus stop intersection in the village.
Hotel Benois ( 22810 42833; www.benois.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €70/90/110, apt €150; ) A well-run hotel, the Benois has pleasant, spick-and-span rooms. It’s close to the beach at the northern entrance to the village.
Eating & Drinking
Socrates ( 22810 43284; mains €4.50-9) Eat beneath a leafy canopy on the garden terrace at this well-run place with traditional dishes including youvetsi (choice pieces of lamb in a tomato sauce, baked with pasta).
Iliovasilema ( 22810 43325; mains €5-12) A good local eatery where fish such as black bream is by the kilo, but where there are reasonably priced seafood starters and fish soup.
Savvas ( 22810 42998; mains €6-10) Next door to Iliovasilema, Savvas is distinguished by locally sourced ingredients and authentic Syran cuisine; signature dishes include pork in honey