Greece - Korina Miller [318]
Beyond the harbour, there’s a beachfront line of cafes and music bars with cool lounge decor worthy of Mykonos. Places like Fotis ( 6938735017) and Briki ( 22840 52652) spill out onto little beaches and play a mix of classical strands by day and jazzier, funkier sounds by night.
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AROUND PAROS
Lefkes Λεκες
pop 494
Lovely Lefkes clings to a natural amphitheatre amid hills whose summits are dotted with old windmills. Siesta is taken seriously here and the village has a general air of serenity. It lies 9km southeast of Parikia, high among the hills, and was capital of Paros during the Middle Ages. The village’s main attractions are its pristine alleyways and buildings. The Cathedral of Agia Triada is an impressive building, shaded by olive trees.
From the central square, a signpost points to a well-preserved Byzantine path, which leads (in 3km) to the village of Prodromos. At the edge of the village, keep left at a junction (signposted) with a wider track. Sections of the route retain their original paving.
Down on the southeast coast is the attractive harbour and low-key resort of Piso Livadi, where there is a pleasant beach. Perantinos Travel & Tourism ( 22840 41135; perantin@otenet.gr) can arrange accommodation, car hire and boat trips to other islands, and also arranges money exchange. There is an ATM next to Perantinos.
Beaches
There is a fair scattering of beaches around the island’s coastline, including a good one at Krios, accessible by water taxi (return €4) from Parikia. Paros’ top beach, Hrysi Akti (Golden Beach), on the southeast coast, is hardly spectacular, but it has good sand and several tavernas, and is popular with windsurfers.
There is a decent enough beach at Aliki on the south coast.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
The straits between Paros and Antiparos are especially suited to windsurfing and the spectacular sport of kiteboarding – effectively windsurfing in midair.
Down the coast at Pounta, Eurodivers Club ( 22840 92071; www.eurodivers.gr) has an impressive range of diving courses and dives for all levels and interests. A PADI open-water certification course costs €410, all inclusive.
Paros Kite Pro Center ( 22840 92229; www.paroskite-procenter.com), well run by the same team as Eurodivers Club, has a range of courses. These include an introductory one-hour kiteboarding session for €45, while more intensive courses start at €190 for four to six hours.
At Golden Beach, Aegean Diving College ( 22840 43347, 6932289649; www.aegeandiving.gr) offers a range of dives of archaeological and ecological interest led by scientists and experienced professional divers. A ‘discover scuba’ dive costs €80, and PADI open-water certification is €450.
Octopus Sea Trips ( 6932757123; www.octopuseatrips.com), based at Golden Beach and affiliated with Aegean Diving College, runs marine environmental courses and activities with snorkelling and diving for families and children.
Fanatic Fun Centre ( 6938307671; www.fanatic-paros.com; Hrysi Akti) runs catamaran sailing, water-skiing and windsurfing. One-hour windsurfing instruction costs €23 and a two-hour kiteboarding course is €75.
SLEEPING & EATING
Piso Livadi, which has a sunny magic of its own, has a number of modern rooms and apartments and a few decent tavernas.
Anna’s Studios ( 22840 41320; www.annasinn.com; Piso Livadi; s/d/tr/ste/apt €43/57/65/65/95; ) Anna’s bright and spacious studios, just inland from the harbour, are unbeatable value, right down to the exquisite decorative embroidery pieces by Anna’s mother. The family also has well-kept rooms right on the harbour front, but without the seclusion of the studios. There are tea- and coffee-making facilities.
Halaris Taverna ( 22840 43257; mains €5-9) Right on the Piso Livadi waterfront, Halaris is one of the best tavernas on Paros and specialises in fresh fish from the family’s boat as well as traditional meat and vegetable