Greece - Korina Miller [319]
Thea ( 22840 91220, 6945751015; Pounta; dishes €9-18) The location of this great restaurant, near the Antiparos ferry quay at Pounta, may be unassuming but the views across the channel are marvellous. There are rich aromas of old Greece and Asia Minor in the air, and the food is superb. Mains include Cappadocian lamb with apricots, and beef with quinces, rice and plums. There are over 400 different vintages kept in a wine room–cum-bar, which even has a glass floor with bottles nestling beneath your feet. The music collection is every bit as fine.
ENTERTAINMENT
Punda Beach Club ( 22840 41717; www.pundabeach.gr; Viva Punda) For the ultragregarious this all-day clubbing venue, on the east coast south of Piso Livadi, is the place to head for. It’s a huge complex with swimming pools, bars, restaurants, a gym, live music shows and a relentlessly crowded beach scene.
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ANTIPAROS
ΑΝΤΙΠΑΡΟΣ
pop 1037
Change down several gears for Antiparos, a laid-back and lovely island, which is rightly proud of its distinctiveness and independence from Paros; you forget this at your peril in front of local people. The main village and port (also called Antiparos) is a relaxed place. There’s a touristy gloss round the waterfront and main streets, but the village runs deep inland to quiet squares and alleyways that give way suddenly to open fields.
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ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
Go right from the ferry quay along the waterfront. The main street, Agora, heads inland just by the Anargyros Restaurant. Halfway up the main street are an Emporiki Bank and National Bank of Greece, next to each other and both with ATMs. The post office is also here. The central square is reached by turning left at the top of the main street and then right, behind Smiles Cafe.
To reach the kastro, another Venetian creation, go under the stone arch that leads north off the central square.
The rest of the island runs to the south of the main settlement through quiet countryside. There are several decent beaches, especially at Glyfa and Soros on the east coast.
Nautica Café ( 22840 61323; internet per hr €2; ) is a busy waterfront cafe with internet access and free wi-fi for customers.
There are several tour and travel agencies, including Cave Travel ( 22840 61376) and Oliaris Tours ( 22840 61231; oliaros@par.forthnet.gr). Blue Island Divers ( 22840 61493; www.blueisland-divers.gr) can also arrange accommodation and car hire.
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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Despite previous looting of stalactites and stalagmites, the Cave of Antiparos (admission €3.50; 10.45am-3.45pm summer) is still awe-inspiring. It is 8km south of the port. Follow the coast road south until you reach a signed turn-off into the hills. From the port there are hourly buses to the cave (one way €5), and there are cave tours every hour.
On the main pedestrian thoroughfare of town, with a gear and clothes shop attached, is the helpful Blue Island Divers ( 22840 61493; www.blueisland-divers.gr) which has a wide range of dive options. The owners have a great knowledge of the Antiparos scene. Accommodation and car rental can also be arranged. A four-day PADI open-water course is €350 and an advanced course is €270. A ‘discover scuba diving’ day session is €50. Trips can be tailored to suit individual wishes.
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TOURS
MS Thiella ( 22840 61028) runs tours around the island daily, stopping at several beaches. The price (adult/child €45/25) covers barbecue and drinks; you can book at local travel agencies.
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SLEEPING
Camping Antiparos ( 22840 61221; camp sites per adult/child/tent €6/4/4) This pleasant beachside camping ground is planted with bamboo ‘compartments’ and cedars and is 1.5km north of the port. It has a minimarket, bar and restaurant. A site bus picks up from the port.
Anarghyros