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Greece - Korina Miller [323]

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place. It’s just a short distance inland from the port and is framed by one of the biggest bougainvilleas you’re likely to see. Rooms are clean and well equipped and include cooking facilities.

Hotel Glaros ( 22850 23101; www.hotelglaros.com; Agios Georgios; s incl breakfast €65, d incl breakfast €85-95; ) The attractive decor of Hotel Glaros captures the colours of sea and sky. Service is efficient and thoughtful and the rooms are bright and clean. The hotel is only a few steps away from the beach. The owners also have attractive studios nearby (€65 to €100).

Hotel Grotta ( 22850 22215; www.hotelgrotta.gr; Grotta; s/d incl breakfast €70/85; ) Located on high ground to the east of the ferry quay, this fine modern hotel has comfortable and immaculate rooms, great sea views from the front, spacious public areas and a Jacuzzi. It’s made even better by the cheerful, attentive atmosphere.

Chateau Zevgoli ( 22850 26123; www.apollonhotel-naxos.gr; Kastro; s/d/ste €75/90/120; ) Tucked away at the heart of Kastro is this long-established hotel. It has a leafy garden setting to go with the traditional Naxian style of rooms and furnishings.

Eating

Naxian cuisine cherishes such local specialities as kefalotyri (a hard cheese made from sheep’s milk), honey, kitron (a liqueur made from the leaves of the citron tree – Click here), raki (Greek firewater, smoother than tsipouro, Greece’s main firewater), ouzo and fine white wine.

Meze 2 ( 22850 26401; Paralia; mains €3-9) The emphasis at this popular mezedhopoleio is on fish, and even the local fishermen eat here. Superb seafood is prepared and served by family members in an atmosphere that is never less than sociable. There is another Meze at Plaka Beach.

Meltemi ( 22850 22654; Komiakis; mains €5.50-14) Top dishes at this family-run taverna are lamb flavoured with fresh lemon juice and oregano, and exohiko, tender pieces of baked meat with Gruyere cheese and vegetables. They also do three-course fixed menus for €10 to €12.50, all served with courtesy and good humour on a leafy terrace that makes up for an otherwise dull street scene.

O Apostolis ( 22850 26777; Old Market; mains €5.50-17) Right at the heart of the labyrinthine Old Market area of Bourgos, Apostolis serves up rewarding dishes such as mussels in garlic butter and parsley, and bekri mezes, a popular Cretan dish of casseroled beef. The kleftiko, lamb wrapped in filo pastry with sautéed vegetables and feta cheese is particularly good.

Irini’s ( 22850 26780; Paralia; mains €6-9.50) The real deal at this pleasant taverna is the terrific selection of dishes such as codfish croquettes and shrimp saganaki – from which you can construct a very satisfying meal.

Lucullus ( 22850 22569; Old Market St; mains €6.50-18) One hundred years’ service and still going strong, this famous restaurant has starters such as mushroom pie, while mains include lemonato, tender veal in a fresh lemon juice and white wine sauce. The fisherman’s pasta mixes shrimps, tomatoes, garlic and dill.

Also recommended:

East West Asian Restaurant ( 22850 24641; Odos Komiakis; dishes €5.60-13) Thai, Chinese and Indian favourites.

Picasso Mexican Bistro ( 22850 25408; Agiou Arseniou; dishes €5.25-12.75; 7pm-late) The fajitas at this great Tex-Mex place are world class. Also at Picasso on the Beach, Plaka Beach.

Near the Zoom newsagent and bookshop is the town’s best bakery. Next door is the Zoom Minimarket. The cheapest supermarkets are Atlantic and Vidalis, both a little way out of town on the ring road.

Drinking

The seafront Paralia has a good mix of music cafe-bars interspersed with shops and offices, all ideal for people watching.

On the Rocks ( 22850 29224; Pigadakia; ) The place to go for character and cocktails. Enjoy Havana cigars or a sheesha (water pipe) with a wide selection of flavours from apple to mango, peach or pistachio. Or go for Cuban-style daiquiris or tequila. It all goes with sounds that vary between funk, house and electronic. Occasional live performances and karaoke stir the mix.

Jazz-Blues Café ( 22850 22006; Old Market St)

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