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Greece - Korina Miller [324]

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A cosy little evening and late-night cafe-bar that plays what it says it does, just where the narrow, almost tunneled alleyways start to wriggle up into Kastro.

Jam (Pigadakia) A huge playlist with rock and standard favourites is the background to this long-established music bar. There’s a matching list of cocktails.

Entertainment

CINEMAS

Cine Astra ( 22850 25381; Andreas Papandreou; adult/child €8/5) About a five-minute walk from the main square, it shows newly released mainstream films and has a bar. Sessions are at 9pm and 11pm.

NIGHTCLUBS

Abyss (Grotta; admission €12; 11.30pm-3am May–mid-Sep, 11.30pm-late Fri & Sat mid-Sep–Apr) Previously known as Super Island, this place has had something of a makeover inside and out, but plays much the same sounds with house and modern Greek at the fore.

Ocean ( 22850 26766; Seafront; admission €12; 11.30pm-3am May–mid-Sep, 11.30pm-late Fri & Sat mid-Sep–Apr) A sizeable space features house and some modern Greek music, and runs special nights with guest DJs.

SUNSET CONCERTS

Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian Museum ( 22850 22387; Kastro; events admission €15-20; 8pm Wed-Sun Apr-Oct) Special evening cultural events are held at the museum, and comprise traditional music and dance concerts, and classical and contemporary music recitals. Prices depend on seat position.

Shopping

Takis’ Shop ( 22850 23045; Plateia Mandilara) Among the splendid wines here are such fine names as Lazaridis from northern Greece, Tslepos from the Peloponnese and Manousakis from Crete – all masterful vintages. You can also find Vallindras kitron (Click here) and ouzo here. Incorporated is Takis’ jewellery shop, where fine individual pieces from some of Greece’s most famous designers often reflect ancient designs and the imagery of the sea.

Kiriakos Tziblakis ( 22859 22230; Papavasiliou) A fascinating cavelike place crammed with traditional produce and goods, from pots and brushes to herbs, spices, wine, raki and olive oil.

Naksia ( 22850 23660; Plateia Pigadakia) For a remarkable collection of candles try this colourful shop tucked away in a cul-de-sac off the Plateia.

Antico Veneziano ( 22850 26206; Kastro) Deep within Kastro is this upmarket antique store and gallery that makes for a fascinating visit.


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AROUND NAXOS

Beaches

Conveniently located just south of the town’s waterfront is Agios Georgios, Naxos’ town beach. It’s backed by hotels and tavernas at the town end and can get very crowded, but it runs for some way to the south and its shallow waters mean the beach is safe for youngsters.

The next beach south of Agios Georgios is Agios Prokopios, in a sheltered bay to the south of the headland of Cape Mougkri. It merges with Agia Anna, a stretch of shining white sand, quite narrow but long enough to feel uncrowded towards its southern end. Development is fairly solid at Prokopios and the northern end of Agia Anna.

Sandy beaches continue down as far as Pyrgaki and include Plaka, Kastraki and Alyko.

One of the best of the southern beaches is Mikri Vigla – its name translates as ‘little lookout’, a watching place for pirates, and is a reference to the headland, all golden granite slabs and boulders, that divides the beach into two. The settlement here is a little scattered and is punctuated by half-finished buildings in places, but there’s a sense of escapism and open space.

Near the beach at Ágios Prokopios is Villa Adriana ( 22850 42804; www.adrianahotel.com; s/d/tr/apt €75/85/90/120; ), a well-appointed hotel with excellent service and bright, comfortable rooms.

A great ‘away from it all’ option is Oasis Studios ( 22850 75494; www.oasisnaxos.gr; d/tr/apt €87/100/116; ) at Mikri Vigla, 20km south of Hora. It is close to the beach and has lovely big rooms with kitchens. The owner and staff are very helpful and there’s an outside terrace with a swimming pool and bar that encourages sociability.

The beachside Taverna Liofago ( 22850 75214, 6937137737; dishes €4.50-9) has a dreamy beach location. It has been in business for decades and favours a variety of dishes

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