Greece - Korina Miller [325]
South of Mikri Vigla, at Kastraki, is one of the best restaurants on the island, Axiotissa ( 22850 75107), noted for its sourcing of organic food and for its traditional dishes with added Anatolian flair.
Tragaea Τραγαα
The Tragaea region is a vast plain of olive groves and unspoilt villages, couched beneath the central mountains.
MT ZEUS
Filoti, on the slopes of Mt Zeus (1004m), is the region’s largest village. It has an ATM booth just down from the main bus stop. On the outskirts of the village (coming from Hora), an asphalt road leads off right to the isolated hamlets of Damarionas and Damalas.
From Filoti, you can also reach the Cave of Zeus (Zas), a large, natural cavern at the foot of a cliff on the slopes of Mt Zeus. There’s a junction signposted Aria Spring and Zas Cave, about 800m south of Filoti. If travelling by bus, ask to be dropped off here. The side road ends in 1.2km. From the road-end parking, follow a walled path past the Aria Spring & Cave of Zeus, a fountain and picnic area, and on to a rough track uphill to reach the cave. The path leads on from here steeply to the summit of Zas. It’s quite a stiff hike of about 3km. A good way to return to Filoti, taking another 4km, is to follow the path that leads north from the summit. This is not a mere stroll, so be fit and come equipped with good footwear, water and sunscreen. A longer, but less strenuous, route up Mt Zeus starts from the little chapel of Aghia Marina on the road to Danakos. Ask to be let off the Apiranthos bus at the Danakos junction about 6km beyond Filoti.
HALKI ΑΛΚΕΙΟ
One of Naxos’ finest experiences is a visit to the historic village of Halki, which lies at the heart of the Tragaea, about 20 minutes’ drive from Naxos town. Halki is a vivid reflection of historic Naxos and is full of the handsome facades of old villas and tower houses, legacy of a rich past as the one-time centre of Naxian commerce.
The main road skirts Halki. There is some roadside parking but you may find more at the schoolyard at the north end of the village and on a piece of rough ground just beyond the school. Lanes lead off the main road to the beautiful little square at the heart of the village.
Since the late 19th century Halki has had strong connections with the production of kitron, a unique liqueur. The citron (Citrus medica) was introduced to the Mediterranean area in about 300 BC and thrived on Naxos for centuries. The fruit is barely edible in its raw state, but its rind is very flavoursome when preserved in syrup as a glika koutaliou (spoon sweet). Kitroraki, a raki, can be distilled from grape skins and citron leaves, and by the late 19th century the preserved fruit and a sweet version of kitroraki, known as kitron, were being exported in large amounts from Naxos.
The Vallindras Distillery ( 22850 31220; 10am-11pm Jul-Aug, 10am-6pm May-Jun & Sep-Oct) in Halki’s main square, distils kitron the old-fashioned way. There are free tours of the old distillery’s atmospheric rooms, which still contain ancient jars and copper stills. Kitron tastings round off the trip and a selection of the distillery’s products are on sale. To arrange a tour during the period November to April you need to phone 22850 22534 or 6942551161.
Another Halki institution is the world-class ceramics shop L’Olivier and its nearby gallery (boxed text).
There are sleeping possibilities in Halki and Filoti, but you are best to ask around locally.
Near the L’Olivier gallery is the fascinating shop Era ( 22859 31009; eraproducts@mail.gr) where marmalade, jam and spoon desserts are made using the best ingredients. In Halki’s central square, Yianni’s Taverna ( 22850 31214; dishes €5.50-7.50) is noted for its good local meat dishes and fresh salads with myzithra (sheep’s-milk cheese). Do not miss Glikia Zoi (Sweet Life; 22850 31602), directly opposite the L’Olivier gallery. Here Christina Falierou works her magic in a traditional cafe setting, making delicious cakes and sweets to go with coffee or drinks. Also of