Greece - Korina Miller [331]
Ermis ( 22850 71693; fax 22850 74214; s/d €55/70; ) In a quiet, leafy location behind the post office, these spacious rooms have attractive decor and generous balconies at the front.
Alkyonides Studios ( 22850 74170; www.alkionides.gr; d/tr/q incl breakfast €70/75/80) Taking the high ground on Koufinisia are these well-located studios above Loutro’s little harbour. The name ‘Alkyonides’ is proudly displayed on an old boat, just one of a few eccentric touches. The spacious, bright rooms have fans rather than air conditioning, a plus as far as some are concerned. Breakfast is included (the egg layers are just down the road). Don’t be put off by the rocky road approach or the odd abandoned car. A path leads down to Loutro in a few minutes.
Villa Ostria ( 22850 71671; www.koufonissiatours.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €70/85/90; ) A stylish, small hotel, Villa Ostria stands on the high ground above the beach and has a charming garden area. Rooms are smart and comfortable and have fridges.
Eating
Kalamia Café ( 22850 74444; snacks €3-5.50; ) A great gathering point and net-browsing venue. Link-up is free to customers and there’s a bar-top screen if you don’t have your own kit. They do a range of breakfast fare from €3.50 to €6.
Karnagio ( 22850 71694; mains €4-10) Don’t miss this little ouzerie at Loutro where the tables skirt the harbour. It operates out of a tiny building. Prawn saganaki and seafood platters at €10 for small, €20 for large, go well with the ambience.
Lefteris ( 22850 71458; dishes €4.50-8) Lefteris dishes up reasonably priced Greek standards to huge numbers of visitors in high summer. Its vast terrace looks out over the town beach and it’s open for breakfast and lunch also.
Capetan Nikolas ( 22850 71690; mains €4.50-11) One of the best seafood places on the islands, this happy, family-run restaurant overlooks the little harbour at Loutro. Shrimp salad for €6.50 is a good bet while locally caught fish, such as red mullet and sea bream, are a speciality and are priced by the kilo.
Drinking
Scholeio ( 22850 71837; 6pm-3.30am) A little island bar and crêperie that goes well with the island’s laid-back ambience. Scholeio does a great line in cocktails and other drinks, and plays jazz, blues, rock and other choice sounds. It’s right at the western end of the village’s main street above Loutro. The owners are accomplished photographers and often have exhibitions of their work on show.
Sorokos ( 22850 71704; 4pm-3am) Drinks and snacks and hot sounds that range from early-hours lounge music to harder vibes at night make this a popular hangout beyond the town beach.
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DONOUSA ΔΟΝΟΥΣΑ
pop 110
Donousa is the out-on-a-limb island where you stop bothering about which day it might be. In late July and August the island can be swamped by holidaymaking Greeks and sun-seeking north Europeans, but out of season be prepared to linger – and be rewarded for it.
Agios Stavros is Donousa’s main settlement and port, a cluster of functional buildings round a handsome church, overlooking a small bay. Little has changed here over the years, but water shortage – on an island that was once always well supplied – has resulted in recent pipe-laying to houses from a new storage tank for imported water. New surfaced walkways have been a welcome side-effect. The town also has a good beach, which also serves as a thoroughfare for infrequent vehicles and foot traffic to a clutch of homes, rental rooms and a taverna across the bay.
Roussos Travel ( 22850 51648) on the waterfront is the ticket agency for the local ferry Express Skopelitis.
Sigalis Travel ( 22850 51570, 6942269219) in the To Iliovasilema restaurant complex (see right) sells tickets for Blue Star ferries.
There is an ATM outside Roussos Travel (it’s sometimes hidden behind a blue shutter for protection from blown sand). But be sure to bring sufficient cash in high season. There is a public telephone up a steep hill above the waterfront;