Greece - Korina Miller [332]
There is a medical centre ( 22850 51506) and postal agency just below the church.
Kendros, situated 1.25km to the southeast of Agios Stavros, along a rather ugly bulldozed track, is a sandy and secluded beach with a seasonal taverna. Livadi, a dusty 1km hike further east, sees even fewer visitors. Both Kendros and Livadi are popular with naturists. Bulldozed, unsurfaced roads have marred Donousa in places, but there are still paths and tracks that lead into the hills to timeless little hamlets such as Mersini.
Sleeping & Eating
Most rooms on the island are fairly basic but are well kept, clean and in good locations. You should book ahead for stays in July and August, and even early September.
Prasinos Studios ( 22850 51579; d €40-60, apt €80) In a lofty position on the high ground on the far side of the beach, this pleasant complex has a mix of well-kept rooms.
To Iliovasilema ( 22850 51570; d/tr/studios €45/50/55; ) Reasonable rooms, some with kitchens, overlook the beach. There’s a popular restaurant with a fine terrace and a good selection of food (dishes €4.50 to €20).
Capetan Giorgis ( 22850 51867; mains €4.50-9) Sturdy traditional food is on the menu at the Capetan’s, where the terrace, just above the harbour, has good views across the bay.
There are a couple of food shops that have a reasonable selection of goods in July and August.
The hub of village life is Kafeneio To Kyma by the quay, where things liven up late into the night in summer.
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AMORGOS ΑΜΟΡΓΟΣ
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Amorgos (ah-mor-ghoss) lies well to the southeast of the main Cycladic group; this lovely island rises from the sea in a long dragon’s back of craggy mountains that is 30km from tip to toe and 822m at its highest point. The island’s southeast coast is unrelentingly steep and boasts an extraordinary monastery embedded in a huge cliff. The northern half of the opposite coast is equally spectacular, but relents a little at the narrow inlet where the main port and town of Katapola lies.
Amorgos’ other port town, Aegiali, lies at the island’s northern end and is more appealing as a resort. It has a good beach and is encircled by rugged mountains. The enchanting Hora (also known as Amorgos) nestles high in the mountains above Katapola.
There’s plenty of scope for beaching, but Amorgos is much more about archaeology and the outdoor world – there’s great walking, scuba diving and a burgeoning rock-climbing scene, although currently the latter is for the very experienced rather than the passing thrillseeker.
Getting There & Away
Connections between Amorgos and Naxos are very good with the small ferry, Express Skopelitis, running each day and connecting the Little Cyclades and Amorgos. The big Blue Star ferries also run to and from Piraeus and continue to Astypalea and to Rhodes while other ferries link from Piraeus via Folegandros and Santorini. For details Island Hopping.
Getting Around
Regular buses go from Katapola to Hora (€1.40, 15 minutes), Moni Hozoviotissis (€1.60, 15 minutes) and Agia Anna Beach (€1.50, 20 minutes), and less-frequent services go to Aegiali (€2.40, 30 minutes). However, there are fewer services on weekends. There are also buses from Aegiali to the picturesque village of Langada. Schedules are posted on bus windscreens.
Cars and motorcycles are available for hire from the travel agencies N Synodinos ( 22850 71201; synodinos@nax.forthnet.gr; Katapola) and Aegialis Tours ( 22850 73107; fax 22850 73394; www.amorgos-aegialis.com; Aegiali).
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KATAPOLA ΚΑΤΑΠΟΛΑ
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The island’s principal port, Katapola, straggles round the curving shoreline of a dramatic bay in the most verdant part of the island. The fascinating and extensive remains of the ancient city of Minoa, as well as a Mycenaean cemetery, lie above the port and can be reached by a steep, surfaced road. Amorgos has also yielded many Cycladic finds; the largest figurine in the National Archaeological