Greece - Korina Miller [333]
Orientation & Information
Boats dock right on the waterfront. The bus station is to the left along the main waterfront, on the eastern shore of the bay.
A bank (with ATM) is midwaterfront and there’s an ATM next to N Synodinos. There is a postal agency next to the Hotel Minoa on the central square.
Hotel Minoa ( 22850 71480; 9am-2pm & 7-10pm; internet per hr €5)
N Synodinos ( 22850 71201; synodinos@nax.forthnet.gr) Sells ferry tickets and has money exchange and car hire (per day in high season €45).
Port police ( 22850 71259) On the central square.
Sleeping & Eating
Domatia owners usually meet ferries and are among the most restrained and polite in the Cyclades.
Diosmarini ( 22850 71636; www.diosmarini.com; d/tr/apt €50/70/100) On the northern shores of the bay and about 1km from the ferry quay, Diosmarini is a good option away from the main port. It has big rooms in a handsome and modern Cycladic-style building. There are airy views from most balconies.
Pension Sofia ( 22850 71494; www.pensionsofia.gr; d/tr €55/80; ) The charming, family-run Sofia stands amid gardens and little meadows in a quiet area of town. Rooms are fresh and colourful. The same family has well-equipped studios and apartments elsewhere in the area (€120 to €150).
Eleni’s Rooms ( 22850 71628; roomseleni@gmail.com; s/d/tr €60/65/75) An unbeatable position to the west of the ferry quay makes these unfussy but bright and airy rooms an excellent choice. The rooms rise through several levels and offer unbeatable views. You can even hop down in seconds for a morning swim at an adjoining beach.
Mouragio ( 22850 71011; dishes €4.50-9) Down to earth and nearly always packed by mid-evening, Mouragio specialises in seafood. It’s on the main waterfront near the ferry quay. Shellfish are by the kilo but reasonable dishes include fish soup.
Elichryson ( 22850 71517; dishes €5-8.50; 8am-10pm) Ideal for breakfast (€3.50 to €8), the pleasant Elichryson cafe is just back from the main waterfront.
Vitsentzos ( 22850 71518; dishes €5.50-9) A fine traditional restaurant with exposed stonework and a varnished wooden floor in its interior, Vitsentzos also has a leisurely terrace overlooking the bay. Food is classic Greek with modern influences. Seafood is by the kilo.
Drinking
Moon Bar ( 22850 71598) On the northern waterfront, this is the place to reflect on all that is well with the world with reassuring views to the sea and great background sounds that range from classical through blues, rock and funk into the early hours. Breakfasts are €5.
Le Grand Bleu ( 22850 71633) Still keeping alive the spirit of the iconic film The Big Blue, this popular bar plays rock, reggae and modern Greek music on the northern waterfront.
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HORA ΧΩΡΑ
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The old capital of Hora sparkles like a snowdrift across its rocky ridge. It stands 400m above sea level and is capped by a 13th-century kastro atop a prominent rock pinnacle. Old windmills stand like sentinels on surrounding cliffs. There’s a distinct veneer of sophistication, not least in the handful of trendy bars and shops that enhance Hora’s appeal without eroding its timelessness.
The bus stop is on a small square at the edge of town. The post office is on the main square, reached by a pedestrian lane from the bus stop. The island’s police station ( 22850 71210) is halfway along the main street.
Hora’s archaeology museum ( 9am-1pm & 6-8.30pm Tue-Sun) is on the main pedestrian thoroughfare, near Café Bar Zygós.
Sleeping & Eating
Hora has a handful of pleasant pensions.
Pension Ilias ( 22850 71277; s/d/tr/apt €45/55/65/80) Tucked away amid a jumble of traditional houses just down from the bus stop is this unpretentious, family-run place with decent rooms.
View To Big Blue ( 22850 71814, 6932248867; s/d €50/70) At the top end of the village is this attractive place in its own little garden. Rooms are very bright and comfy.
Café Bar Zygós ( 22850 71155; snacks €3-8; 8am-3am) Right at the cool, colourful heart of Hora,