Greece - Korina Miller [334]
Keep heading up the winding main street to reach Tsagaradiko ( 6937281226; dishes €3-8), a great little ouzerie with tables on a lovely small square.
Return to beginning of chapter
MONI HOZOVIOTISSIS ΜΟΝΗ ΧΟΖΟΒΙΩΤΙΣΣΗΣ
Amorgos is defined by this iconic monastery ( 8am-1pm & 5-7pm), a dazzling white building embedded in an awesome cliff face high above the sea. It lies on the precipitous east coast below Hora. The monastery contains a miraculous icon that was found in the sea below the cliff. It got there (allegedly unaided) from Asia Minor, Cyprus or Jerusalem – depending on which legend you’re told. A few monks still live here and short tours, which usually end with a pleasant chat with one of the monks, take place sporadically, usually when a reasonable number of visitors have gathered at the door of the monastery. The tour is free but donations are appreciated.
Out of respect, modest dress is essential: long trousers for men; a long skirt or dress for women, who should also cover their shoulders. Wraps are no longer available at the entrance, so make sure you are prepared.
Return to beginning of chapter
AEGIALI ΑΙΓΙΑΛΗ
pop 232
Aegiali is Amorgos’ second port and has more of a resort style, not least because of the fine sweep of sand that lines the inner edge of the bay on which the village stands. Steep slopes and impressive crags lie above the main village.
Efficient Amorgos Travel ( 22850 73401; www.amorgostravel.gr), above the central supermarket on the waterfront, can help with a host of travel needs including ferry tickets, accommodation and island tours. Check it out for diving and walking possibilities also. Long-established Aegialis Tours ( 22850 73107; www.aegialistours.com) sells ferry tickets, and can organise accommodation, tours and vehicle hire.
There’s a postal agency about 100m uphill from Aegialis Tours.
Tours
Ask at travel agencies about a daily bus outing (€25) around the island that leaves at 9.30am and returns at 4.30pm, with stops at Agia Pavlos, Moni Hozoviotissis and Hora. Boat trips around the island (€30) and to the Little Cyclades (€40) can also be arranged.
Sleeping
As is the case in Katapola, domatia owners meet the ferries.
Aegiali Camping ( 22850 73500; www.aegialicamping.gr; camp sites per adult/child/tent €5.50/2.70/3.50) Good facilities and a pleasantly shaded location on the road behind the beach makes this camping ground an attractive proposition. You can rent a tent for €6.30.
Pension Askas ( 22850 73333; www.askaspension.gr; d €60-70, tr €65-75; ) Next to Aegiali Camping is this decent pension in a garden setting, with clean, attractive rooms.
Lakki Village ( 22850 73505; www.lakkivillage.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €85/95/105, apt incl breakfast €110-145; ) This attractive, well-kept complex ambles inland from the beachfront through lovely gardens and water features. Rooms are in Cycladic-style buildings and have colourful traditional furnishings. Top-priced apartments sleep four people.
Eating
Restaurant Lakki ( 22850 73253; mains €3.50-8) A beach and garden setting makes the restaurant of Lakki Village a relaxing place to enjoy well-prepared Greek dishes.
To Koralli ( 22850 73217; dishes €4-12.50) Up a flight of steps at the eastern end of the waterfront, To Koralli has an airy view that goes with excellent Greek cuisine. Treat yourself to a platter of shrimps, octopus and squid, and small fish or meat dishes such as veal with eggplant, cheese, tomatoes and peppers.
Askas Taverna ( 22850 73333; mains €4.50-7) Adjoining Aegiali Camping and Pension Askas, this taverna offers good helpings of Greek standards. They stage rembetika (Greek blues) music evenings four times a week in July and August.
To Limani ( 22850 73269; dishes €4.50-9) Traditional fare prepared with home-grown produce makes Limani a popular