Greece - Korina Miller [335]
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AROUND AMORGOS
On the east coast, south of Moni Hozoviotissis, is Agia Anna Beach, the nearest beach to both Katapola and Hora. Don’t get excited; the car park is bigger than any of the little pebbly beaches strung out along the rocky shoreline, and all the beaches fill up quickly. Next to the car park on the cliff-top there’s a small cantina selling food and drinks.
The lovely villages of Langada and Tholaria nestle amid the craggy slopes above Aegiali. The views from both are worth the trip alone. The two are linked to each other, and to Aegiali, by a signposted circular path that takes about four hours (Greek time). Regular buses run between the villages and Aegiali.
In Langada the Pagali Hotel ( 22850 73310; www.pagalihotel-amorgos.com; d/ste €75/95; ) is tucked away in the lower village and has superb views. The spacious rooms and studios are fronted by an almost Alpine-like terrace, where there’s a long, narrow pitch of earth used for the nightly game of bales, the Amorgan version of boules, played with balls roughly carved out of olive wood. The hotel is a good contact point for alternative holidays that include experiencing the owners’ organic farm, yoga and meditation sessions, art workshops, walking and rock climbing on the neighbouring crags.
The adjoining Nico’s Taverna ( 22850 73310; mains €6-8) is run by the same family that owns the Pagali Hotel. Nico’s makes a strong play for sustainability, with organic ingredients from the family’s own farm, including olive oil, home-made wine and cheeses. Vegetarians should be in their element, but local goat dishes are also superb.
Special-Interest-Holidays (SP.IN; 6939820828; www.amorgos.dial.pipex.com), based at Langada, organises walking holidays with very experienced and knowledgeable guides.
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IOS ΙΟΣ
pop 1900
Ios is slowly shedding its image as the party capital of the Cyclades. It has always been as traditional in landscape and cultural terms as any other island in the group, and Greek life goes on sturdily beyond the wall-to-wall bars and nightclubs of Hora and the beach scene. The opening of the recently excavated Bronze Age site of Skarkos (Click here) has enhanced the island’s appeal and there is evidence that families and older holidaymakers are heading for Ios in increasing numbers. There’s still hard partying, though, and you need some stamina to survive the late-night action in the centre of Hora.
Getting There & Away
Ios lies conveniently on the Mikonos–Santorini ferry axis and has regular connections with Pireaus. For details Island Hopping.
Getting Around
In summer crowded buses run between Ormos, Hora and Mylopotas Beach about every 15 minutes (€1.40). From June to August private excursion buses go to Manganari Beach (one way €3) and Agia Theodoti Beach (one way €2.50). Buses leave at 11am and return at 4.30pm.
Caïques travelling from Ormos to Manganari cost €12 per person for a return trip (departing 11am daily). Ormos and Hora both have car and motorcycle hire that can be booked through the Plakiotis Travel Agency and Acteon Travel (below).
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HORA, ORMOS & MYLOPOTAS
ΧΩΡΑ, ΟΡΜΟΣ & ΜΥΛΟΠΟΤΑΣ
Ios has three population centres, all very close together on the west coast: the port, Ormos; the capital, Hora (also known as the ‘village’; population 1656), 2km inland by road from the port; and Mylopotas (population 73), the beach 2km downhill from Hora.
Orientation
The bus terminal in Ormos is straight ahead from the ferry quay on Plateia Emirou. If you don’t mind the heat, it’s possible to walk from the port to Hora by heading up left from Plateia Emirou, then right