Greece - Korina Miller [340]
The island was circular then and was called Strongili (Round One). Thousands of years ago a colossal volcanic eruption caused the centre of Strongili to sink, leaving a caldera with towering cliffs along the east side – now one of the world’s most dramatic sights. The latest theory, based on carbon dating of olive-oil samples from Akrotiri, places the event 10 years either side of 1613 BC.
Santorini was recolonised during the 3rd century BC but for the next 2000 years sporadic volcanic activity created further physical changes that included the formation of the volcanic islands of Palia and Nea Kameni at the centre of the caldera. As recently as 1956 a major earthquake devastated Oia and Fira, yet by the 1970s the islanders had embraced tourism as tourists embraced the island and today Santorini is a world destination of truly spectacular appeal.
Getting There & Away
There are several flights a day to and from Athens, Thessaloniki, Crete, Mykonos and Rhodes. There are also a good number of ferries a day to and from Piraeus and to and from many of Santorini’s neighbouring islands. There are daily ferries to Crete and about four ferries a week go to Rhodes and Kos in the Dodecanese. For details Island Hopping.
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SANTORINI’S UNSETTLING PAST
Santorini’s volcanic landscape became partly dormant around 3000 BC and, soon after, the first human settlers arrived to take advantage of the fertile soil of the post-volcanic landscape. Between 2000 BC and 1600 BC it was occupied by the Minoans and, from evidence found at Akrotiri (Click here), they seemed to have fashioned a highly sophisticated culture.
About 1613 BC a chain of earthquakes and eruptions culminated in one of the largest explosions in the history of the Earth. Thirty cubic kilometres of magma spewed forth and a column of ash 36km high jetted into the atmosphere. The centre of the island collapsed, producing a caldera that the sea quickly filled. The eruption also generated huge tsunamis that travelled with dangerous force and devastating effect all the way to Crete and Israel.
After the Big One, Santorini settled down for a time and was even recolonised. In 236 BC volcanic activity separated Thirasia from the main island. In 197 BC the islet now known as Palia Kameni appeared in the caldera. The south coast of Santorini collapsed in 1570, taking the ancient port of Eleusis with it. An eruption in 1707 created Nea Kameni Islet next to Palia Kameni.
In recent history a major earthquake measuring 7.8 on the Richter scale savaged the island in 1956, killing scores of people and destroying most of the houses in Fira and Oia. Today’s renaissance is remarkable; the resilience and insouciance of locals even more so. Sophisticated monitoring devices are said to be capable of reasonably early warnings of any potential volcanic activity in the future.
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Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
There are frequent bus connections in summer between Fira’s bus station and the airport, located southwest of Monolithos Beach. Enthusiastic hotel and domatia staff meet flights, and some also return guests to the airport. A taxi to the airport costs €12.
BUS
In summer buses leave Fira every half-hour for Oia (€1.40), Monolithos (€1.40), Kamari (€1.40) and Perissa (€2). There are less-frequent buses to Exo Gonia (€1.40), Perivolos (€2) and Vlyhada (€2.20). In summer the last regular bus to Fira from Oia leaves at 11.00pm.
Buses leave Fira, Kamari and Perissa for the port of Athinios (€2, 30 minutes) an hour and a half before most ferry departures. Buses for Fira meet all ferries, even late at night. It is wise to check port departures well in advance.
CABLE CAR & DONKEY
A cable car ( 22860 22977; M Nomikou; every 20min 7am-10pm, to 9pm winter) hums smoothly between Fira and the small port below, known as Fira Skala, from where volcanic island cruises leave. One-way cable car tickets cost €4 per adult, and €2 per