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Greece - Korina Miller [341]

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child; luggage is €2. You can make a more leisurely, and aromatic, upward trip by donkey (€5).

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

A car is the best way to explore the island during high season, when buses are intolerably overcrowded and you’re lucky to get on one at all. Be very patient and cautious when driving – the narrow roads, especially in Fira, can be a nightmare. Note that Oia has no petrol station, the nearest being just outside Fira.

Two very good local hire outfits are Damigos Rent a Car ( 22860 22048, 6979968192) and, for scooters, Zerbakis ( 22860 33329, 6944531992).

TAXI

Fira’s taxi stand ( 22860 23951/2555) is in Dekigala just round the corner from the bus station. A taxi from the port of Athinios to Fira costs €12, and a trip from Fira to Oia is also €12. Both cost €13 if you book ahead. If you miss the last bus from Oia to Fira, three or four people can bargain for a shared taxi for about €12. A taxi to Kamari is €10, to Perissa €15 and to Ancient Thira €22 one way.


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FIRA ΦΗΡΑ

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A multitude of fellow admirers cannot diminish the impact of Fira’s stupendous landscape. Views from the edge of the caldera over the multicoloured cliffs are breathtaking, and at night the caldera edge is a frozen cascade of lights that eclipses the displays of the gold shops in the streets behind.

Orientation

The busy heart of Fira is Plateia Theotokopoulou (Central Sq). It’s a fairly crowded, chaotic place; the main road, 25 Martiou, intersects the square as part of a one-way system that just manages to keep the nonstop traffic flow going. The bus station is on Mitropoleos, 150m south of Plateia Theotokopoulou. Between 25 Martiou and the caldera is the essence of Fira, a network of pedestrianised alleyways, the main ones running parallel to 25 Martiou. Erythrou Stavrou is the main commercial thoroughfare.

A block west of Erythrou Stavrou is Ypapantis, whose southern section is known also as Gold St because of its many jewellers. It runs along the edge of the caldera and has superb panoramic views until the shops intrude. Below the edge of the caldera is the paved walkway of Agiou Mina, which heads north and merges eventually with the cliff-top walkway that continues north past the pretty villages of Firostefani and Imerovigli. Keep going and you’ll reach Oia; but it’s a long, hot 8km.

Information

Fira doesn’t have an EOT (Greek National Tourist Organisation) or tourist police. It’s best to seek out the smaller travel agents in the town, where you’ll receive helpful service.

Toilets are north of Plateia Theotokopoulou near the port police building. You may need to brace yourself (they’re of squat vintage). Bring your own paper – but not to read.

BOOKSHOPS

Books & Style ( 22860 24510; Dekigala) An excellent range of books in various languages. There’s a great selection of volumes on Greece as well as travel guides, children’s books and novels.

EMERGENCY

Hospital ( 22860 22237) On the road to Kamari. A new hospital at Karterados was under construction at the time of writing.

Police station ( 22860 22649; Karterados) About 2km from Fira.

Port police ( 22860 22239; 25 Martiou) North of the square.

INTERNET ACCESS

PC World ( 22860 25551; Plateia Theotokopoulou; per hr €1.90; 9am-9pm) A good range of services.

LAUNDRY

AD the Laundry Station ( 22860 23533; average load wash & dry €10; 9am-9pm)

MONEY

There are numerous ATMs scattered around town.

Alpha Bank (Plateia Theotokopoulou) Represents American Express and has an ATM.

National Bank of Greece (Dekigala) South of Plateia Theotokopoulou, on the caldera side of the road. Has an ATM.

POST

Post office (Dekigala)

TRAVEL AGENCIES

Aegean Pearl ( 22860 22170; www.aptravel.gr; Danezi) An excellent, helpful agency that sells all travel tickets and can help with accommodation, car hire and excursions.

Pelican Tours & Travel ( 22860 22220; fax 22860 22570; Plateia Theotokopoulou) Sells ferry tickets and can book accommodation and excursions.

Sights & Activities

MUSEUMS

Near the bus station, the Museum of Prehistoric

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