Greece - Korina Miller [347]
One of the most entertaining venues is the Volcan Wine Museum ( 22860 31322; www.volcanwines.gr; admission €5; noon-8pm), housed in a traditional canava (winery) on the way to Kamari. It has interesting displays, including a 17th-century wooden winepress. Admission includes an audio guide and three wine tastings. On Friday night from May to October there’s a festival night (€48), which includes a visit to the museum, three tastings, free buffet, free wine, live music and traditional costume dances, and even plate breaking.
There’s also the Art Space gallery-winery outside Kamari – see below.
The following wineries should be contacted before visiting:
Boutari ( 22860 81011; www.boutari.gr; Megalohori)
Canava Roussos ( 22860 31278; www.canavaroussos.gr; Mesa Gonia)
Hatzidakis ( 22860 32552; www.hatzidakiswines.gr; Pyrgos Kallistis)
Sigalas ( 22860 71644; www.sigalas-wine.com; Oia)
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Kamari Καμρι
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Kamari is 10km from Fira and is Santorini’s best-developed resort. It has a long beach of black sand, with the rugged limestone cliffs of Cape Mesa Vouno framing its southern end with the ancient site of Ancient Thira on its summit. The beachfront road is dense with restaurants and bars. Things get very busy in high season. Other less appealing but quieter beaches lie to the north at Monolithos.
Lisos Tours ( 22860 33765; lisostours@san.forthnet.gr) is especially helpful and has an office on the main road into Kamari, and another just inland from the centre of the beach. It sells ferry tickets and can organise accommodation and car hire. All kinds of tours can be arranged and there’s internet access and a bureau de change.
The unmissable gallery Art Space ( 22860 32774; Exo Gonia) is just outside Kamari. It is located in Argyro’s Canava, one of the oldest wineries on the island. The atmospheric old wine caverns are hung with superb artworks while sculptures transform lost corners and niches. The collection is curated by the owner and features some of Greece’s finest modern artists. Winemaking is still in the owner’s blood, and part of the complex is given over to producing some stellar vintages. A tasting of Vinsanto greatly enhances the whole experience.
SLEEPING
Anna’s Rooms ( 22860 22765; s/d €25/35) Unbeatable budget deals can be had at these straightforward rooms. One group of rooms is behind Lisos Tours at the back of town; the other is behind Lisos Tours in the village.
Hotel Matina ( 22860 31491; www.hotel-matina.com; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast €108/116/144/192; ) A very well-run independent hotel, the Matina has spacious, brightly decorated rooms and is set back from the road in quiet grounds.
Aegean View Hotel ( 22860 32790; www.aegeanview-santorini.com; studio/apt €130/150; ) Tucked below the limestone cliffs high above Kamari, this outstanding hotel has spacious studios and apartments superbly laid out and with first-class facilities, including small kitchen areas. There’s a lift to some rooms.
EATING
Amalthia ( 22860 32780; dishes €3.50-12) A long-established local favourite, Amalthia is a couple of blocks inland at the southern end of town, and there’s a lovely garden area and a terrace with barbecue. There are well-prepared Greek dishes (the lamb is particularly good) and a range of pastas.
Mistral ( 22860 32108; mains €5.50-14) Seafood is what this classic psarotaverna is all about. Fish plates for two are about €30 and the likes of bream and red mullet are by the kilo.
Mario No 1 ( 22860 32000; Agia Paraskevi, Monolithos; dishes €6.50-12) Right on the beach at Monolithos, near the airport, is this outstanding restaurant, one of Santorini’s best. Fish is by the kilo and you can select shellfish from a display. There’s a great list of mezedhes such as mussels’ saganaki or sweet red peppers stuffed with feta, garlic, tomato and parsley. Meat dishes include roast lamb with rosemary and proper mousaka.
Ancient Thira Αρχαα Θρα
First settled by the Dorians in the 9th century BC, Ancient Thira (admission €4; 8am-2.30pm Tue-Sun) consists of Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine ruins