Greece - Korina Miller [348]
From March to October Ancient Thira Tours ( 22860 32474; Kamari) runs a bus every hour from 9am until 2pm, except on Monday, from Kamari to the site. If driving, take the surfaced but narrow, winding road from Kamari for just over 1km. From Perissa, on the other side of the mountain, a hot hike up a dusty path on sometimes rocky, difficult ground takes over an hour to the site.
Ancient Akrotiri Αρχαο Ακρωτρι
Excavations at Akrotiri ( 22860 81366), the Minoan outpost that was buried during the catastrophic eruption of 1650 BC, began in 1967 and have uncovered an ancient city beneath the volcanic ash. Buildings, some three storeys high, date back to the late 16th century BC. Outstanding finds are the stunning frescoes and ceramics, many of which are now on display at the Museum of Prehistoric Thera in Fira.
At the time of writing the site was closed indefinitely, pending ongoing negotiations over remedial construction work – one visitor was killed and several others injured when a section of the roof collapsed during the summer of 2005. You may find that there is a degree of confusion locally about whether or not the site is open. Check the ‘archaeological sites’ section of www.culture.gr and check thoroughly on arrival at Santorini before making a bus or taxi journey to what may still be a closed site. You can experience some of the rich value of the site at the archaeological museum Click here and the Petros M Nomikos Conference Centre both in Fira.
Beaches
At times Santorini’s black-sand beaches become so hot that a sun lounger or mat is essential. The best beaches are on the east and south coasts.
One of the main beaches is the long stretch at Perissa, a popular destination in summer. Perivolos and Agios Georgios, further south, are more relaxed. Red Beach, near Ancient Akrotiri, has high red cliffs and smooth, hand-sized pebbles submerged under clear water. Vlyhada, also on the south coast, is a pleasant venue. On the north coast near Oia, Paradise and Pori are both worth a stop.
Based at Perissa and Akrotiri Beach is the Santorini Dive Centre ( 22860 83190; www.divecenter.gr), offering a good range of courses including ‘discover scuba diving’ for €55, half-day snorkelling for €40 and an open-water diving course for €380.
SLEEPING & EATING
The main concentration of rooms can be found in and around Perissa.
Youth Hostel Anna ( 22860 82182; www.hostelworld.com; dm €12-15, d €25; May-Sep; ) A well-managed and popular hostel, Anna’s is on the busy roadside at the entrance to Perissa and about five minutes from the beach. The private rooms are in a separate building. You can book excursions and boat tickets here, there’s money exchange, and credit cards are accepted. A minibus picks up guests from the ferry port.
Stelio’s Place ( 22860 81860; www.steliosplace.com; d/tr/q €70/90/120; year-round; ) In a great position set back from the main drag but barely a minute from the beach, and with immaculate, well-appointed rooms, Stelio’s is great value. Prices can drop below half in the low season.
Hotel Drossos ( 22860 81639; www.familydrossos.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €102/112/153; ) Behind the simple facade of this fine hotel lies a lovely complex of rooms and studios with stylish decor and furnishings.
There’s reliable Greek food on offer at God’s Garden ( 22860 83027; dishes €4.50-11), a decent taverna with fish dishes starting at about €6.
Most beaches have a range of tavernas and cafes.
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THIRASIA & VOLCANIC ISLETS ΘΗΡΑΣΙΑ & ΗΦΑΙΣΤΕΙΑΚΕΣ ΝΗΣΙΔΕΣ
Unspoilt Thirasia (pop 158) was separated from Santorini by an eruption in 236 BC. The cliff-top hora, Manolas, has tavernas and domatia. It’s an attractive place, noticeably more relaxed and reflective than Fira could ever be.
The unpopulated islets of Palia Kameni and Nea