Greece - Korina Miller [349]
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ANAFI ΑΝΑΦΗ
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Anafi is the escape clause of Santorini, an island perched on a distant horizon somewhere between yesterday’s dream and a modern-day holiday delight; a slow-paced traditional lifestyle and striking Cycladic landscapes are the marks of this endearing island. There are few other visitors outside high summer, although Anafi is growing in popularity.
Orientation & Information
The island’s small port is Agios Nikolaos. From here, the main village, Hora, is a 10-minute bus ride up a winding road, or a 1km hike up a less winding but steep walkway. In summer a bus runs every two hours from about 9am to 11pm and usually meets boats. Hora’s main pedestrian thoroughfare leads uphill from the first bus stop and has most of the domatia, restaurants and minimarkets.
There is an ATM in a small kiosk just past a public telephone halfway along the harbour front, on the left.
There is a postal agency that opens occasionally, next to Panorama at the entrance to Hora.
You can buy ferry tickets at the travel agency ( 22860 61408) in Hora’s main street next to Roussou minimarket or at a small office on the harbour front before ferries are due.
Sights
There are several lovely beaches near Agios Nikolaos. Palm-lined Klissidi, a 1.5km walk to the port, is the closest and most popular.
Anafi’s main sight is the monastery of Moni Kalamiotissas, 9km by road from Hora or reached by a more appealing 6km walk along a path. It’s in the extreme east of the island, near the meagre remains of a sanctuary to Apollo and below the summit of the 470m Monastery Rock, the highest rock formation in the Mediterranean Sea, outstripping even Gibraltar. The walk to the monastery is a rewarding expedition but it’s a fairly tough trip in places and is a day’s outing there and back. There is also a ruined Venetian kastro at Kastelli, east of Hora.
Sleeping
Domatia owners prefer long stays in high season, so if you’re only staying one night you should take whatever you can get, or book ahead.
Apollon Village Hotel ( 22860 28739; www.apollonvilla.gr; s/d/tr €48/65/75, studios €58-75; apt €70-125; ) Rising in tiers above Klissidi Beach, these lovely individual rooms and studios, each named after an Olympian god and with glorious views, are outstanding value. Breakfast is €8 and the Blue Cafe-Bar is a cool stylish adjunct to the hotel with home-made sweets and pastries on offer.
Margarita’s Rooms ( 22860 61237; anafi1@hotmail.com; s/d €50/60) Right by the beach and next to Margarita’s Café, these pleasant little rooms hark back to the beach life of quieter times.
Many of the rooms in Hora have good views across Anafi’s rolling hills to the sea and to the great summit of Monastery Rock. The following recommended options are open all year and all charge about €45 for a double room:
Panorama ( 22860 61292)
Paradise ( 22860 61243)
Villa Gallini ( 22869 61279) In a particularly good location.
Eating
There are several tavernas in Hora, all of which are in the main street.
Liotrivi ( 22860 61209; mains €4-9) Great fish dishes (by the kilo), with the catch supplied from the family’s boat; just about everything else, from eggs to vegetables and honey, comes from their garden.
Armenaki ( 22860 61234; mains €5-6.50) Good Greek traditional food at this great taverna is enhanced by an airy terrace and the pleasure of live bouzouki music on summer evenings.
Margarita’s ( 22860 61237; Klissidi; mains €6-10.50) A sunny little terrace overlooking the bay at Klissidi makes for enjoyable eating here. Pork with mushrooms in a lemon sauce is a good option. Breakfasts are €2.50 to €5.
Getting There & Away
Anafi may be out on a limb and you can still face a challenge getting there out of season, but in summer the island has reasonable connections to Piraeus, Santorini, Sikinos,