Greece - Korina Miller [350]
Getting Around
A small bus takes passengers from the port up to Hora. Caïques serve various beaches and nearby islands.
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SIKINOS ΣΙΚΙΝΟΣ
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Lonely Sikinos (see-kee-noss) is another attractive escape from the clamour of Ios and Santorini, yet this lovely island is not much smaller than Santorini. It has a mainly empty landscape of terraced hills that sweep down to the sea. The main clusters of habitation are the port of Alopronia, and the linked inland villages of Hora and Kastro. The latter are reached by a 3.4km winding road that leads up from the port. There’s a post office at the entrance to Kastro, and a National Bank of Greece ATM in the central square of Kastro. The medical centre is next door to the ATM. Ferry tickets can be bought in advance at Koundouris Travel ( 22860 51168, 6936621946). There is a petrol station outside Alopronia on the road to Kastro. You can hire scooters here for about €15 to €20.
Sights
Kastro, so named from an original Venetian fortress of the 13th century of which little physical sign remains, is a charming place, with winding alleyways between brilliant white houses. At its heart is the main square with a central war memorial surrounded by peaceful old buildings, one with ornate stone window-frames and sills long since whitewashed over. On one side is the church of Pantanassa. On the northern side of Kastro, the land falls sharply to the sea and the shells of old windmills punctuate the cliff edge. A flight of whitewashed steps leads up to the once-fortified church of Moni Zoödohou Pigis above the town.
To the west of Kastro, above steeply terraced fields and reached by an equally steep flight of steps, is the reclusive Hora, where numerous derelict houses are being renovated.
From the saddle between Kastro and Hora, a surfaced road leads southwest to Moni Episkopis (admission free; 6.30pm-8.30pm). The remains here are believed to be those of a 3rd-century-AD Roman mausoleum that was transformed into a church in the 7th century and then became the monastery Moni Episkopis 10 centuries later. From here you can climb to a little church and ancient ruins perched on a precipice to the south, from where the views are spectacular.
Caïques (about €6) run to good beaches at Agios Georgios, Malta – with ancient ruins on the hill above – and Karra. Katergo, a swimming place with interesting rocks, and Agios Nikolaos Beach are both within easy walking distance of Alopronia.
At the time of writing, a surfaced road was being laid to Agios Georgios and surrounding beaches. It is expected that buses will run to these beaches from Alopronia in summer.
Sleeping & Eating
There are several accommodation options at the port, but Hora is a more worthwhile place to stay.
Persephone’s Rooms ( 22860 51229; Kastro; s/d/tr €40/60/70) Decent studio-type rooms on the outskirts of Kastro make for a good base on the island.
Lucas Rooms ( 22860 51076; www.diakopes.gr; Alopronia; d/studios €55/85; ) Two good locations are on offer here and rooms are decent and clean; one set of rooms is on the hillside, 500m uphill from the port. The studios are on the far side of the bay from the ferry quay and have great views.
Kastro Studios ( 22860 51026/51283; Kastro; r €80; ) There are only two places here but they are very new and quietly luxurious and have great views. They have cooking facilities.
Porto Sikinos ( 22860 51220; www.portosikinos.gr; Alopronia; s/d/tr incl breakfast €90/110/125; ) Just up from the quay, the attractive rooms here rise in a series of terraces and have great balcony views. There’s also a bar and restaurant.
Rock ( 22860 51186; Alopronia; dishes €2.60-8) High above the ferry quay is this seasonal cafe and pizza place, where you can also chill into the early hours (sometimes to live music). There are rooms here as well, with doubles priced at €40 to €60.
To Steki tou Garbi (Kastro; dishes €4-8) A good traditional grillhouse just around the corner from Koundouris Travel in Kastro.