Greece - Korina Miller [351]
To Iliovasilema ( 22860 51173; Kastro; mains €4.50-8) Outstanding views enhance a stop at this seasonal place, which dishes up standards as well as pizzas and pasta.
Lucas ( 22860 51076; Alopronia; dishes €6-13) Down at the port, this is the favourite taverna, offering Greek standards without frills and fish by the kilo.
Kastro Bar ( 22860 51026; Kastro) You’ll find this little bar on the way to Moni Zoödohou Pigis. Coffee, drinks and ice cream are the mainstay and Greek music the style. Open morning until late.
There’s a minimarket next to Lucas in Alopronia and another in Kastro.
Getting There & Around
For details of ferry services from Sikinos Island Hopping.
The local bus meets all ferry arrivals and runs between Alopronia and Hora/Kastro (€1.40, 20 minutes) every half-hour in August, but less frequently at other times of the year. A timetable is sometimes posted near the minimarket. It’s wise to be in good time at the departure point.
Return to beginning of chapter
FOLEGANDROS ΦΟΛΕΓΑΝΔΡΟΣ
pop 662
Folegandros (fo-leh-gan-dross) sits elegantly on the southern edge of the Cycladics, a rocky ridge, barely 12km in length and just under 4km at its widest point. Much of the land is over 200m in height, the highest point being Agios Eleftherios at 414m.
The remoteness and ruggedness of Folegandros made it a place of exile for political prisoners from Roman times to the 20th century, and as late as the military dictatorship of 1967–74, yet today it is cherished by devotees of its beauty and character.
The capital is the concealed, cliff-top Hora, one of the most appealing villages in the Cyclades. Boats dock at the little harbour of Karavostasis, on the east coast. The only other settlement is Ano Meria, 4km northwest of Hora. There are several good beaches, but be prepared for strenuous walking to reach some of them.
Getting There & Away
Once poorly served by ferries, Folegandros at least in summer has good connections with Piraeus through the western Cyclades route. It even has connections to Santorini and as far as Amorgos during the summer. For details Island Hopping.
Getting Around
The local bus meets all ferry arrivals and takes passengers to Hora (€1.40). From Hora there are buses to the port one hour before all ferry departures. Buses from Hora run hourly in summer to Ano Meria (€0.80) and divert to Angali Beach. The bus stop for Ano Meria is located on the western edge of Hora.
There is a taxi service ( 22860 41048, 6944693957) on Folegandros.
You can hire cars for about €40 per day, and motorbikes from about €15 per day, from a number of outlets.
In summer, small boats ply regularly between beaches.
Return to beginning of chapter
KARAVOSTASIS ΚΑΡΑΒΟΣΤΑΣΙΣ
pop 55
Folegandros’ port is a sunny little place serviced by a sprinkling of domatia and tavernas, and with a pleasant pebble beach. Within a kilometre north and south of Karavostasis lies a series of other beaches, all enjoyable and easily reached by short walks. In high season, boats leave Karavostasis for beaches further afield.
Sleeping & Eating
Aeolos Beach Hotel ( 22860 41205; s/d/studios €50/55/80) Just across from the beach, this handy hotel has a pretty garden and clean straightforward rooms.
Vrahos ( 22860 41450; www.hotel-vrahos.gr; s incl breakfast €73, d incl breakfast €91-123, studios & apt €97-182; ) In a great location at the far end of the beach, Vrahos rises through a series of terraces, and the front balconies have great views of the bay. Rooms have cool decor and there’s an outdoor Jacuzzi, a bar and a breakfast area. Breakfast is €12.50.
There are a couple of tavernas at the port serving fairly standard dishes, and a couple of good beachside bars. For enduring character, Evangelos is right on the beach and is the place for relaxed drinks, snacks and great conversation.
Return to beginning of chapter
HORA ΧΩΡΑ
pop 316
Hora’s medieval kastro, with its attractive main street flanked by lovely traditional houses, is a major feature of Hora, but the rest of the village is a delight also. The meandering main street