Greece - Korina Miller [362]
Return to beginning of chapter
KYTHNOS ΚΥΘΝΟΣ
pop 1700
Kythnos is not high on the must-see list of foreign holidaymakers, but is a favourite of mainland Greeks and something of a weekend destination for ‘gin palace’ motorcruises also. Yet this is a Greek island of rare character, in spite of its rather dull port, and it has an easygoing lifestyle. The capital, Hora, is an endearing place and the very traditional village of Dryopida is rewarding.
Getting There & Away
Kythnos has reasonable connections with daily ferries to and from Piraeus and several ferries a week to Lavrio. Onward connections to islands to the south are fairly regular in summer. For details Island Hopping.
Getting Around
There are regular buses in high summer from Merihas to Dryopida (€1.40), continuing to Kanala (€2.50) or Hora (€1.40). Less regular services run to Loutra (€2.50). The buses supposedly meet the ferries, but usually they leave from the turn-off to Hora in Merihas. During term-time the only buses tend to be school buses.
Taxis ( 22810 32883, 6944 271609) are a better bet, except at siesta time. Hora is €8 and Dryopida €6.
A taxi-boat ( 6944906568) runs to and from local beaches in summer.
Return to beginning of chapter
MERIHAS ΜΕΡΙΧΑΣ
pop 289
Merihas (meh-ree-hass) does not have a lot going for it other than a bit of waterfront life and a slightly grubby beach. But it’s a reasonable base and has most of the island’s accommodation options. There are better beaches within walking distance north of the quay (turn left facing inland) at Episkopi and Apokrousi.
Information
There’s an Emboriki bank (with ATM) on the road above the Merihas waterfront, and an ATM just past the flight of steps as you come from the ferry quay.
Larentzakis Travel Agency ( 22810 32104, 6944906568) Sells ferry tickets, arranges accommodation and hires cars starting at about €35 a day in August. Scooters start at €20. They also run a taxi boat to beaches (price depending on numbers). It’s up the flight of steps near Ostria Taverna that leads to the main road.
Port police ( 22810 32290) On the waterfront.
Thermia Travel ( 22810 32345) Attached to a neat little wine and food store, this is the place for efficient ferry ticketing and other tourism services.
Sleeping & Eating
Domatia owners usually meet boats and there are a number of signs along the waterfront advertising rooms. A lot of places block-book during the high season and there is some reluctance towards one-night stopovers. You should definitely book ahead for July and August.
Panayiota Larentzaki Rooms ( 22810 32268; s/d/tr €45/50/60; ) Serviceable, if a touch weary, these rooms are a few metres up the road by the bridge. Cheerful Mrs P will probably find you first, as you wander uncertainly past her cafe.
Anna Gouma Rooms ( 22810 32105, 6949777884; s/d €50/60; ) These pleasant, good-sized rooms are right across the bay from the ferry quay, and are away from the hubbub.
Studios Maria Gonidi ( 22810 32324; s/d/tr €50/60/70; ) Over on the far side of the bay with lofty views, these are a top choice. Spacious, sparkling rooms have full self-catering facilities. During July and August there’s little chance of securing short stays, however. Greek only spoken.
Café Vegera ( 22810 32636; snacks €4-6) Kythnos style jumps several scales at this cafe-bar that has a lovely waterside veranda. It beats Mykonos’ Little Venice, and is without the hype and megahigh decibel count. Breakfast in the sun is €4 to €8.
Taverna to Kandouni ( 22810 32220; mains €6-14) On the southern bend of the waterfront, Kandouni is a popular family-run taverna specialising in grilled meat dishes.
Ostria ( 22810 32263; mains €6-15) Just along