Greece - Korina Miller [363]
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AROUND KYTHNOS
The capital, Hora (also known as Kythnos or Messaria), is steadily taking on a distinctive charm, underpinned by its inherent Greek character. Small, colourful cafes and shops are growing in number. The long straggling main street, its surface decorated with painted motifs, makes for a pleasant stroll. The post office and the island’s police station ( 22810 31201) are at the entrance to town coming from Merihas.
The resort of Loutra is 3km north of Hora on a windy bay and hangs on to its status through its surviving thermal baths.
From Hora there is a pleasant 5km-long walk south to Dryopida, a picturesque town of red-tiled roofs and winding streets clustered steeply on either side of a ravine. It is home to a remarkable cave called Kataphyki that extends for 600m. Much work has been carried out to make the cave accessible, but there was no access at the time of writing due to technical problems, although these may be resolved soon. You’re best to cover the 5km back by road to Merihas by bus or taxi.
There are good beaches at Flambouria about 2.5km south of Merihas, and near Kanala on the southeast coast.
Sleeping & Eating
There are plenty of rooms and apartments in Loutra although they tend to be block-booked for stays of more than two days. In Dryopida some private houses let rooms in summer. Ask at shops and tavernas.
Filoxenia ( 22810 31644; www.filoxenia-kythnos.gr; d/tr/q €65/75/90; ) One of the best bets in Hora, these attractive studios are just at the entrance to the main village and overlook a garden. Rooms are immaculate and have good facilities and there’s a charming welcome.
There are several decent tavernas in Hora including Koursaros, To Steki and Mezzeria.
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KEA (TZIA) ΚΕΑ (ΤΖΙΑ)
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Kea is the most northerly island of the Cyclades and, being the island closest to Attica, attracts more mainland locals than foreign visitors. It is an island that wears its many charms quietly. Between its bare hills, green valleys are filled with orchards, olive groves and almond and oak trees. The main settlements on the island are the port of Korissia, and the attractive capital, Ioulida, about 5km inland. There are several fine beaches and some excellent signposted footpaths. Local people use the name Tzia for their island.
Getting There & Away
The island’s main connection to the mainland is through the port of Lavrio in southern Attica; there are no ferries from Piraeus to Kea. Connections onwards to other Cycladic islands are few. Boats are usually packed on Fridays and you should avoid the Sunday night ferry to Lavrio, unless you enjoy controlled rioting. If you plan a Sunday departure, make sure you get your ticket before Friday – and brace yourself for a bit of a mosh pit. For details Island Hopping.
Getting Around
In July and August there are, in theory, regular buses from Korissia to the villages of Vourkari, Otzias, Ioulida and Piosses although there may be irregularities in the schedules. A taxi ( 22880 21021/228) may be a better bet, to Ioulida (€6) especially. A taxi to Otzias is €5 and to Piosses, €20.
For motorcycle and car rental expect to pay, per day, €17 for a scooter and from €45 for a car. Try Lion Cars ( 22880 21898) located mid harbour front.
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KORISSIA ΚΟΡΗΣΣΙΑ
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The port of Korissia (koh-ree-see-ah) is a fairly bland place, but there are enough tavernas and cafes to pass the time. The north-facing beach tends to catch the wind.
Information
There are ATMs on the waterfront and the Piraeus Bank, facing the beach, has an ATM. There is a small ferry ticket office next to the car-hire agency on the waterfront.
Internet Café ( 22880 22635; per hr €4; 10am-2.30pm & 5.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 10am-midnight Fri-Sun) Located just up an alleyway midway along the waterfront.
Tourist information office