Greece - Korina Miller [374]
Eating
Many restaurants close on Sundays.
BUDGET
Giakoumis Taverna ( 2810 280277; Theodosaki 5-8; mayirefta €4-8; closed Sun) One of the best of the tavernas clustered around the 1866 market side streets, Giakoumis is always busy, and serves both vegetarian fare and meats hot off the grill. Cretan specialities dominate.
Ippokambos Ouzerie ( 2810 280240; Sofokli Venizelou 3; seafood mezedhes €5-9) At the edge of the tourist-driven waterfront dining strip, this is another local favourite with house specialities and fresh fish (try the baked cuttlefish).
O Vrakas ( 6977893973; Plateia 18 Anglon; seafood mezedhes €5-12) This small street-side ouzerie (place that serves ouzo and light snacks) grills fresh fish alfresco before you. It’s a humble place, but very popular with locals.
Fyllo…Sofies ( 2810 284774; Plateia Venizelou 33; bougatsa €2.50; 5am-late; ) and the adjacent Kipkop ( 2810 242705; Plateia Venizelou 29) have always-packed tables sprawled out on the square, overlooking Morosini Fountain – the best spot for a breakfast bougatsa (creamy semolina pudding wrapped in a pastry envelope and baked). There’s even wi-fi.
MIDRANGE
Koupes ( 6977259038; Agiou Titou 22; mezedhes €3-6.50) This student-frequented place serving powerful Cretan raki with appetisers (a rakadhiko) opposite the school does great mezedhes (appetisers).
Terzakis ( 2810 221444; Marineli 17; mezedhes €5-10) On a small square opposite Agios Dimitrios church, this excellent ouzerie has numerous mezedhes, mayirefta (ready-cooked meals) and grills. Try the sea-urchin salad or, if feeling really adventurous, ask if the kitchen has ‘unmentionables’: ameletita (fried sheep testicles).
I Avli tou Defkaliona ( 2810 244215; Prevelaki 10; meat dishes €6-10; dinner) This traditional taverna has simple decor, but is good for grills.
Parasies ( 2810 225009; Plateia Istorikou Mouseiou; grills €6.50-10) In the corner of the square next to the Historical Museum, this is a good lunch spot, with tasty grills.
Peri Orexeos ( 2810 222679; Koraï 10; mains €7-10) On the busy Koraï pedestrian strip, try excellent contemporary Greek food here, with creative takes like creamy chicken wrapped in kataïfi (angel-hair pastry), huge salads and solid Cretan cuisine.
TOP END
Brilliant ( 28103 34959; Lato Boutique Hotel, Epimenidou 15; mains €11-20) This upscale restaurant, part of the Lato Boutique Hotel, does fine Greek and international specialities, and has attentive and courteous service.
Prassein Aloga ( 2810 283429; Kydonias 21, cnr Handakos; mains €12-20) ‘Mediterranean fusion’ cuisine is served at this unassuming but inventive rustic-style cafe-restaurant. The menu constantly changes, and features unique dishes based on ancient Greek cuisine, like pork medallions with dried fruit on wild rice.
Loukoulos ( 2810 224435; Korai 5; mains €15-32) Loukoulos is as much about ambience as it is about food, served on fine china and accompanied by soft classical music. It does modern Greek and other Mediterranean dishes, but for the price they are not sufficiently special.
Drinking
Guernica ( 2810 282988; Apokoronou Kritis 2; 10am-late) The cool combination of traditional decor and eclectic contemporary music makes this Iraklio’s hippest bar-cafe. The bar space wraps around a leafy terrace garden with tables. It’s popular as a beer bar with students, and gets lively after midnight.
Pagopiion ( 2810 346028; www.icefacktory.gr; Plateia Agiou Titou; 10am-late) Once an ice factory, this popular cafe-bar-restaurant is marked by eccentric decorations and lighting that create a sort of Christmas-forest ambience.
Café Plus (Plateia Agiou Titou; 9am-2am) This big outdoor cafe at the nexus of Iraklio’s pedestrianised zones is a relaxing