Greece - Korina Miller [375]
Outopia (Handakos; 9am-2am) This cafe on pedestrianised Handakos is a known emporium of chocolates (and other sweets) with impressively long lists of both beers and teas.
Also recommended are the lively Take Five ( 2810 226564; Akroleondos 7; 10am-late), a classic bar on a pedestrian street by El Greco Park, and Café Santan ( 6976 285869; Korai 13), which aspires to be ‘oriental’, with hookahs, sofas and belly dancing from 11pm.
Entertainment
Iraklio has big dance clubs along Leoforos Ikarou, just down from Plateia Eleftherias and along Epimendou, though many close in summer. However, the revitalised waterfront west of the port houses some popular nightclubs, like Big Fish and Desire.
Vogue ( 6944577201; 10pm-6am) A bit more central, this is another waterfront place in an old building popular with Greeks; if you’re foreign and look or act like you’ve stumbled out of a tacky package tour resort, you won’t be let in.
Habanero (Handakos; 10pm-4am) This slick Latin music bar is fleshed out by lithe young Greek couples who actually know how to dance to this stuff.
Big Fish ( 2810 288011; cnr Makariou 17 & Venizelou; 10am-late) is housed in a restored old stone building. Desire is next door.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Iraklio’s Nikos Kazantzakis Airport is Crete’s biggest and gets many regular domestic, international and summertime charter flights. For details, Island Hopping.
Some operators:
Aegean Airlines ( 2810 344324; www.aegeanair.com)
Olympic Air ( 2810 244824; www.olympicairlines.com)
Sky Express ( 2810 223500; www.skyexpress.gr)
BOAT
For information on Iraklio’s numerous ferry connections, Island Hopping. The portside Iraklio Port Authority ( 2810 244912) keeps ferry schedule information.
Ferry operators:
ANEK Lines Iraklio ( 2810 244912; www.anek.gr)
GA Ferries Iraklio ( 2810 222408; www.gaferries.gr)
LANE Lines ( 2810 346440; www.lane.gr)
Minoan Lines ( 2810 229624; www.minoan.gr)
BUS
Iraklio’s main transport hub, Bus Station A ( 2810 246534; www.ktel-heraklio-lassithi.gr; Leoforos Nearhou), serves eastern and western Crete (including Knossos) from its waterfront location near the quay. Bus Station B ( 2810 255965), west of the city centre beyond Hania Gate, serves Phaestos, Agia Galini and Matala. Boxed text, for more information. Most intercity (IC) services are reduced on weekends.
Airport bus 1 operates every 15 minutes between 6.30am and midnight (€0.90) and stops at Plateia Eleftherias.
Getting Around
Bus 1 serves the airport every 15 minutes between 6am and 1am. The bus terminal is near the Astoria Capsis Hotel on Plateia Eleftherias. An airport taxi costs €10 to €12; try Ikarus Radio Taxi ( 2810 211212).
Long-Distance Taxis ( 2810 210102) from Plateia Eleftherias, outside the Astoria Capsis Hotel and Bus Station B, are expensive but quick. Sample fares: Agios Nikolaos €60; Rethymno €70; Hania €100 to €120.
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IRAKLIO’S WINE COUNTRY
Just south of Iraklio and Knossos, the fertile Peza region produces 70% of Cretan wines. The Pezas Union of local producers ( 2810 741945; www.pezaunion.gr; admission free; 9am-4pm Mon-Sat) has tastings, videos and a minimuseum. The state-of-the-art hilltop Boutari Winery ( 2810 731617; www.boutari.gr; Skalani; tour & tasting €4.50; 10am-6pm), about 8km from Iraklio, features a stunning tasting room and showroom overlooking the vineyard of the Fantaxometoho estate – and great wines.
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IRAKLIO BUS SERVICES
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The airport has numerous car-hire companies, including Alianthos Rent-a-Car & Bikes ( 2810 390481, 6945449771; www.alianthos-group.com). Although not the cheapest, this island-wide agency commands a staggering 2500 cars and has flexible service and variety. Its other locations include Rethymno, Hania, Plakias and Agia Galini.
Some smaller local outlets:
Loggetta Cars ( 2810 289462; www.loggetta.gr; 25 Avgoustou 20)
Motor Club ( 2810 222408; www.motorclub.gr; Plateia 18 Anglon) Opposite the fortress; for motorcycles.
Sun Rise ( 2810 221609; 25 Avgoustou 46)