Greece - Korina Miller [379]
Hourly buses connect Iraklio with Arhanes (€1.70, 30 minutes).
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ZAROS & AROUND ΖΑΡΟΣ
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About 46km southwest of Iraklio, Zaros is a more rustic village, known for its spring water production. Nearby excavations indicate that this factor lured Minoans, and later Romans to settle here.
If you’re driving, the Byzantine monasteries and other nearby villages are worth exploring. Moni Agiou Nikolaou, atop the verdant Rouvas Gorge, contains 14th-century paintings, while the nearby Moni Agiou Andoniou Vrondisiou boasts a 15th-century Venetian fountain and 14th-century frescoes.
Just outside Zaros, visit the lovely shady park at Votomos for its small lake, children’s playground and excellent taverna-cafe, I Limni ( 28940 31338; trout per kilogram €22; 9am-late). From the lake, a path accesses both Moni Agiou Nikolaou (900m) and Rouvas Gorge (2.5km).
For overnights, try Studios Keramos ( /fax 28940 31352; Zaros; s/d incl breakfast €30/35; ), decorated with family heirlooms, antique beds and furniture – don’t miss owner Katerina’s home-cooked traditional Cretan breakfast. For eating, the main-street Vengera ( 28940 31730; Zaros; mains €4-6) serves home-cooked traditional Cretan food.
Two daily buses connect Zaros with Iraklio (€4.30, one hour).
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MATALA ΜΑΤΑΛΑ
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Matala (ma-ta-la), on the south coast 11km southwest of Phaestos, was a groovy getaway in the early 1970s, when hippies would sleep around in the sandstone caves that pockmark the giant overhanging rock slab at water’s edge. The caves, populated in earlier centuries, were never for particularly light sleepers – they were originally used as Roman tombs in the 1st century AD.
Matala’s modern ‘civilising’ process of expansion has rather killed its initial escapist appeal, though it does still have its loyal returnees. It’s a fairly ordinary, low-key vacation settlement nowadays, with domatia and tavernas, and a beautiful sandy beach below the caves. You can still clamber around freely in the caves, though they’re normally fenced off at night. There was no guard or entry charge at the time of writing. Matala also makes a convenient base for visiting Phaestos and Agia Triada.
Sleeping & Eating
Fantastic Rooms to Rent ( 28920 45362, s/d/tr €25/30/40, d/tr with kitchen €30/35; ) Around since the hippie heydays, the Fantastic has plain but comfortable rooms, many with kitchenette, phone, kettle and fridge.
Pension Andonios ( 28920 45123; d/tr €30/35; ) Run by the genial Antonis, this comfortable pension has attractively furnished rooms set around a lovely courtyard, many with kitchenette. The top rooms have balconies.
Hotel Zafiria ( 28920 45366, www.zafiria-matala.com; d incl breakfast €40; ) One of Matala’s bigger places, the Zafiria has comfortable rooms with all mod cons. The balconies enjoy sea views, and there’s a new pool beneath the cliffs.
Gianni’s Taverna ( 28920 45719; mains €5-7.50) This no-frills place has inexpensive grills and other simple taverna fare.
Lions ( 28920 45108; specials €6-10) On the beach, this old standby has above-average food, with big trays of home-style dishes inside. It gets lively in the evening, when it doubles as a watering hole.
Getting There & Away
From Iraklio, five daily buses serve Matala (€7.20, 2½ hours). Buses also run between Matala and Phaestos (€1.80, 30 minutes).
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RETHYMNO ΡΕΘΥΜΝΟ
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Delightful Rethymno (reth-im-no) is Crete’s third largest town, noted for its picturesque old town running down to a lively harbour overlooked by a massive Venetian fortress. Although Rethymno is showing signs of urban sprawl, travellers seem to miss it (except when looking for parking), such is the attraction of the lovely old Venetian-Turkish quarter, with its maze of narrow streets, graceful wood-balconied houses