Greece - Korina Miller [380]
Rethymno has a softer, more feminine feel than Iraklio, partly due to architecture, but also because Rethymno’s University of Crete campus specialises in the humanities, which attracts more female students here than males. The full-time student population also keeps Rethymno lively in winter.
History
Rethymno’s strategic position appealed to the Minoans, who settled here. The town was dubbed ‘Rithymna’ from the 4th century BC, when it was autonomous, issuing its own coinage. However, it waned in importance during Roman and Byzantine times.
Rethymno flourished again during Venetian rule (1210–1645), and its most important architecture dates from that period. The Ottomans ruled thereafter until 1897, when Russia became overseer of Rethymno during the European Great Powers’ occupation. The town’s reputation as an artistic and intellectual centre grew from 1923, when the mandated population exchanges between Greece and Turkey brought many refugees from Constantinople.
Orientation
Rethymno’s major sights and best sleeping and eating options are clustered near the harbour; a decent beach is on its eastern side.
The bus station, at the western end of Igoumenou Gavriil, is about 600m west of the Porto Guora (despite some discussions, it hadn’t been relocated at the time of writing). If arriving by ferry, you’ll see the old quarter opposite the quay.
Parking is very difficult around the old town in summer. Although a sign says parking isn’t allowed in the giant lot by the quay, many seem to do so.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Ilias Spondidakis bookshop ( 28310 54307; Souliou 43) Has English-language novels, books about Greece and Greek music.
Mediterraneo Editions ( 28310 50505; Paleologou 41; www.mediterraneo.gr; 8am-10pm) Friendly shop stocks foreign-language books, Lonely Planet and other guide books, and Anavasi hiking maps.
EMERGENCY
Tourist police ( 28310 28156; Delfini Bldg, Venizelou; 7am-2.30pm) At the municipal tourist office.
INTERNET ACCESS
Cybernet (Kallergi 44-46; per hr €3; 10am-5am)
LAUNDRY
Laundry Mat ( 28310 29722; Tombazi 45; wash & dry €9; 8.30am-2pm & 5.30-9pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2.15pm Sat) By the youth hostel.
LEFT LUGGAGE
KTEL ( 28310 22659; cnr Kefalogiannidon & Igoumenou Gavriil); €1.50 per day; 8am-6pm) Luggage service at the bus station.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Rethymno Hospital ( 28210 27491; Triandalydou 17; 24hr)
MONEY
Alpha Bank (Pavlou Koundouriotou 29)
National Bank of Greece (Dimokratias)
POST
Post office ( 28310 22302; Moatsou 21; 7am-7pm Mon-Fri)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Municipal Tourist Office ( 28310 29148; www.rethymno.gr; Delfini Bldg, Eleftheriou Venizelou; 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri year-round, plus 9am-8.30pm Sat & Sun Mar-Nov)
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Alfa Odeon Holidays ( 28310 57610; www.odeontravel.gr; Paleologou 25) The helpful Manolis Chliaoutakis runs this full-service travel agency in the old town.
Ellotia Tours ( 28310 24533; www.rethymnoatcrete.com; Arkadiou 155; 9am-9pm Mar-Nov) Boat and plane tickets, currency exchange, car and bike hire and excursions can be arranged here.
Sights
Rethymno’s 16th-century fortress (fortezza; 28310 28101; Paleokastro Hill; admission €3.10; 8am-8pm Jun-Oct) was originally an ancient acropolis. Although its massive walls once sheltered numerous buildings, only a church and a mosque survive. Nevertheless, there are many ruins to explore, and great views from the ramparts.
Once a prison, the small archaeological museum ( 28310 54668; admission €3; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), near the fortress entrance, exhibits Neolithic tools, Minoan pottery excavated from nearby tombs, Mycenaean figurines and a 1st-century-AD relief of Aphrodite, plus an important coin collection.
Rethymno’s Historical & Folk Art Museum ( 28310 23398; Vernardou 28-30; admission €3; 9.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat), located in a historic Venetian building, documents traditional rural life, with its clothing, baskets, weavings and farm tools.
In the old quarter, the unmissable Rimondi Fountain,