Greece - Korina Miller [381]
Venetian and Turkish architecture is vividly displayed at the Centre for Byzantine Art ( 28210 50120; Ethnikis Antistaseos). This former mansion’s terrace cafe offers great old-town views.
The nearby Nerantzes Mosque, converted from a Franciscan church in 1657, and, further east, the Kara Musa Pasha Mosque, with its vaulted fountain, are Rethymno’s major remaining Ottoman structures. The latter now houses the Hellenic Conservatory, and makes an atmospheric concert venue.
Activities
The Happy Walker ( /fax 28310 52920; www.happywalker.com; Tombazi 56; 5pm-8.30pm) offers various countryside walks near Rethymno. More serious hikers should see EOS (Greek Mountaineering Club; 28310 57766; www.eos.rethymnon.com; Dimokratias 12) for detailed info on mountain climbing and other outdoors adventures in Rethymno prefecture.
The Paradise Dive Centre ( 28310 26317; www.diving-center.gr) runs diving activities and PADI courses for all levels. Its dive base is at Petres, 15 minutes west of Rethymno.
Festivals & Events
The annual Renaissance Festival ( 28310 51199; www.cultureguide.gr) is Rethymno’s biggest event. Events primarily take place in the fortress’s Erofili Theatre from July to September. The mid-July Wine Festival is held in the flower-filled municipal park, which is always good for a relaxing stroll. February sees fun Winter Carnival celebrations.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Rethymno Youth Hostel ( 28310 22848; www.yhrethymno.com; Tombazi 41; dm without bathroom €10, breakfast €2; ) This friendly, laid-back old-town hostel stays open year-round. It enjoys an enclosed, open location, with good bathrooms and a small bar.
Sea Front ( 28310 51981; www.forthnet.gr/elotia; Arkadiou 159; d €35-50; ) This waterfront pension has decent budget rooms with timber floors, plus studio apartments with sea views and ceiling fans further towards the beach.
Atelier ( 28310 24440; atelier@ret.forthnet.gr; Himaras 27; r €35-55) These clean and attractively refurbished rooms attached to Frosso Bora’s pottery workshop represent great value. They’re marked by Venetian architecture, like the exposed stone walls – along with flat-screen TVs, new bathrooms and kitchenettes.
Olga’s Pension ( 28310 28665; Souliou 57; s/d/studio €40/45/65; ) On touristy but colourful Souliou, Olga’s has a faded charm, with eclectic decor and terraces between the basic but colourful rooms. Most include fridge, TV, fan and a basic bathroom. Rates include breakfast, served downstairs in Souliou 55.
Byzantine Hotel ( 28310 55609; Vosporou 26; d incl breakfast from €50; ) Traditional ambience meets great value at this small hotel near the Porta Guora. The rooms in this historic structure feature carved timber furniture, and some have bathtubs. The back rooms overlook the old mosque and minaret.
Casa dei Delfini ( 28310 55120; kzaxa@reth.gr; Nikiforou Foka 66-68; studio €55-75, ste €80-140; ) Turkish and Venetian architectural features intermingle in this elegant pension, which includes an old stone trough and hammam ceiling in one of the studio bathrooms. The traditionally decorated rooms all feature kitchenettes; most impressive is the massive maisonette, with its large private terrace.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Hotel Veneto ( 28310 56634; www.veneto.gr; Epimenidou 4; studio/ste incl breakfast €125/145; ) For some of Rethymno’s most beautiful aesthetic flourishes, visit the Veneto, which dates partially from the 14th century. The foyer’s stunning pebble mosaic and a well-lit stone basin, where delicate flowers float, open onto a pretty back garden, where breakfast tables are set amidst verdure and a gurgling fountain. Rooms feature polished wood floors, iron beds, TV and kitchenettes. A subterranean, curving-stone chamber where monks once meditated is not the largest room, but is certainly the most striking. Out of high season, rates drop significantly.