Greece - Korina Miller [382]
Palazzo Rimondi ( 28310 51289; www.palazzorimondi.com; cnr Xanthoulidou 21 & Trikoupi 16; d studio/ste incl breakfast €160/200; ) This charming old-town Venetian mansion is a real treat, with its exquisite individually decorated studios with kitchenettes. There’s a small splash pool in the breakfast courtyard.
Avli Lounge Apartments ( 28310 58250; www.avli.gr; cnr Xanthoudidou 22 & Radamanthyos; ste incl breakfast €210-250; ) Inconspicuously spread over two beautifully restored Venetian buildings in the old town, these singular suites feature ornate iron or wooden beds, antiques, exquisite furnishings and objets d’art.
Eating
The waterfront and Venetian harbour are, unsurprisingly, occupied by touristy places; head inland for better options.
Fanari ( 28310 54849; Kefalogiannidon 15; mezedhes €2.50-10) West of the Venetian harbour on the waterfront, this taverna serves good mezedhes, fresh fish and Cretan cuisine. Try the bekri mezes (pork with wine and peppers) or apaki, the local smoked-pork speciality, plus the homemade wine.
Taverna Kyria Maria ( 28310 29078; Moshovitou 20; Cretan dishes €4-6.50) Behind the Rimondi Fountain, this taverna has great home-style Greek cooking and outdoor seating, where bird cages hang from a leafy trellis.
Souliou 55 ( 28310 54896; Souliou 55; mayirefta €4-7) Known informally as ‘Stella’s Kitchen’, this little place specialising in mayirefta is below Olga’s Pension, run by Stella herself.
Samaria ( 28310 24681; Eleftheriou Venizelou; mayirefta €4-7) On the waterfront but still popular with locals, Samaria does good mayirefta, while the soups and grills are also excellent.
Thalassografia ( 28310 52569; Kefalogiannidon 33; mezedhes €4-9) With a breathtaking setting overlooking the sea, under the fortress, Thalassografia is a good place to sample mezedhes at sunset, though it’s perhaps overpriced. The grilled sardines are excellent, as are the creamy mushrooms.
Lemonokipos ( 28310 57087; Ethnikis Antistaseos 100; mains €7-9) Dine among the lemon trees in the lovely courtyard of this old-town taverna. The traditional Cretan fare includes some unique twists, such as pork and vegetables flavoured with bitter orange leaves.
Castelvecchio ( 28310 55163; Himaras 29; mains €8-16; dinner Jul-Aug, dinner & lunch Sep-Jun) This welcoming family taverna on the fortress’ edge is friendly and does good Cretan specialities, like the kleftiko (oven-baked lamb).
Avli ( 28310 26213; www.avli.com; cnr Xanthoudidou 22 & Radamanthyos; mains €13.50-30) This delightful former Venetian villa is the place for a special night out. The Nuevo Cretan–style food is superb, the wine list excellent and you dine in a charming courtyard bursting with pots of herbs, bougainvillea canopies, fruit trees and works of art.
Also highly recommended are Myrogdies Mezedopoleio ( 28310 26083; Vernadou 32; mezedhes €4-6) and Ousies ( 28310 56643; Vernadou 20; mezedhes €4-7), two inexpensive mezedhopoleia (restaurants specialising in mezedhes and raki) with great summertime ambience, on Vernadou.
Drinking & Entertainment
Rethymno’s nightlife is concentrated in the bars, clubs and discos around Nearhou and Salaminos, near the Venetian harbour, along with the waterfront bars off Plastira Sq. The indefatigable student population keeps Rethymno lively year-round.
Figaro ( 28310 29431; Vernardou 21; noon-late) Housed in an ingeniously restored old building, Figaro is an atmospheric ‘art and music’ all-day bar. It attracts everyone from the local intelligentsia and students to tourists drawn in by the subdued ambience and excellent music.
Living Room ( 28310 21386; www.livingroom-crete.gr; Venizelou 5; 9am-2am) This slick cafe-bar seems to have four waiters per capita, and exudes a Fashion-TV vibe in its ambient techno and eclectic modern decor. It’s popular with students and other locals.
Rock Club Cafe ( 28310 31047; Petihaki 8; 9pm-dawn) One of Rethymno’s classic hangouts, this club is popular with visitors and gets filled nightly in summer.
Fortezza Disco (Nearhou 20; 11pm-dawn) This big, flashy club gets busy late, and