Greece - Korina Miller [392]
The Brits left in 1955, however, and the family home would become the Hotel Doma, high in the Halepa district, overlooking the sea and the busy boulevard named after Eleftherios Venizelos, under whose stewardship Greece dramatically enlarged its northern and Aegean territories.
After the catastrophic Megali Idea (‘Great Idea’) led to the abrupt termination of 2000 years of Greek civilisation in Anatolia, Venizelos returned from a Parisian retirement to lead the Greek delegation that signed the 1923 Treaty of Lausanne, mandating the Greek-Turkish population exchanges. He later served as prime minister again, but died in Paris.
Venizelos experienced a second exile but spent many of his final years in Hania. Kyria Rena recalls Venizelos, then quite old, walking past on his morning constitutional. ‘I was a little girl then,’ she says, ‘and my sister, who was then only two years old, would always rush to the window, at just the moment he would pass by every morning – we would wave excitedly and he would smile; he always waved back.’
She also recalls that one year, on Venizelos’ name day, his political supporters promenaded past her house on the way to his home, ‘carrying an enormous cake they had baked – of course, in the shape of Crete’.
Despite the partisanship that has chronically marked Greek politics, and other political factions’ voluble opposition to Venizelos, when he died in 1936, at 72, there was a great outpouring of grief. In Hania, people hung black in their balconies. ‘I remember that many men from the villages came in traditional dress, with knives on their belts, and my mother taking us to Agia Magdalini Church, where Venizelos was lying in state,’ recalls Kyria Rena. ‘When it was our turn to look in the coffin, she said to me, “Daughter, I want you to look very carefully, for this was a very great man. Look, and don’t forget him!” That is a moment I have always remembered.’
* * *
Porto de Colombo ( 28210 70945; colompo@otenet.gr; cnr Theofanous & Moshou; d/ste incl breakfast €90/115; ) This Venetian mansion that became the French embassy and Venizelos’ office is now a charming boutique hotel with 10 well-appointed rooms; the top suites enjoy fine harbour views.
TOP END
Amphora Hotel ( 28210 93224; www.amphora.gr; Parodos Theotokopoulou 20; d with view €140, ste €165; ) This immaculately restored Venetian mansion boasts elegantly decorated rooms, the best being in the main wing, with harbour views. Rooms without a view are cheaper, though all could do with a fridge. Breakfast is €10 extra.
Casa Leone ( 28210 76762; www.casa-leone.com; Parodos Theotokopoulou 18; r incl breakfast €130-170; ) This classy former Venetian residence offers spacious, airy rooms, with balconies overlooking the harbour.
Casa Delfino ( 28210 93098; www.casadelfino.com; Theofanous 7; d & apt incl breakfast €200-325; ) The famous Casa Delfino is Hania’s most luxurious, housed in an elegant 17th-century Old Town mansion. Breakfast is in the splendid pebble-mosaic courtyard.
Eating
Avoid the mediocre, overpriced waterfront tavernas – the Old Town’s back streets conceal some of Crete’s finest and most atmospheric restaurants.
Bougatsa Shop (bougatsa €2; 6am-2pm) Hania’s most delicious bougatsa, made with Crete’s sweet myzithra cheese, has been served since 1924 at this unassuming hole in the wall, opposite the bus station.
Mesogeiako ( 28210 59772; Daliani 36; mezedhes €3-6) Also in Splantzia, this trendy mezedhopoleio (restaurant specialising in mezedhes) does excellent Cretan appetisers with a twist. Try the pork meatballs with local raki.
Kouzina