Greece - Korina Miller [393]
Tsikoudadiko To Mesostrato ( 28210 72783; Zambeliou 31; mezedhes €4-7) There’s great atmosphere within the walls of this 400-year-old roofless Venetian structure. The Tsikoudadiko is serenaded by roving musicians, while the crickets chirp in unison as if applauding from the foliage above. Try the snail, sweet red peppers, and fried mushrooms.
Michelas ( 28210 90026; mains €5-8; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) Near the meat section of the food market Click here, Michelas is an old classic serving inexpensive and authentic Cretan fare.
To Karnagio ( 28210 53366; Plateia Katehaki 8; mains €5-10.50) Near the Great Arsenal, this popular outdoor place does good seafood (try the grilled cuttlefish) and classic Cretan dishes.
Doloma ( 28210 51196; Kalergon 8; mayirefta €5.50-7; Mon-Sat) Set amidst vines and foliage on an outdoor terrace, this harbourside place has excellent traditional specialities.
Tamam ( 28210 96080; Zambeliou 49; mains €5.50-8.50) Housed in old Turkish baths, Tamam (meaning ‘OK’ in Turkish) does excellent vegetarian specialities and eastern-influenced dishes. Try the house salad and the Beyendi chicken with creamy aubergine purée.
Portes ( 28210 76261; Portou 48; mains €6-9) Everyone visiting Hania must dine here at least once. Set along a quiet lane in the Old Town, this excellent little place run by affable Susanna from Limerick serves Cretan treats with flair. Try the divine gavros (marinated anchovies) or stuffed fish baked in paper, or the tasty meatballs with leek and tomato. The homemade bread is excellent too.
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MAGICAL MYZITHRA
People come to Crete just for its distinctive sweet cheese, myzithra (made from sheep’s or goat’s milk). Often hard to find elsewhere, it’s the key ingredient in restaurants’ myzithropitakia (sweet cheese pies) – crunchy, golden-brown triangles filled with the delicious cheese.
Myzithra is also used in kalitsounies, soft, circular breakfast pastries, their centres filled with the cheese and flecked with cinnamon. Find them at zaharoplasteia (sweet shops) and bakeries.
Local specialities use myzithra too. In the southwestern Sfakia area, the thin Sfakiani pita, filled with myzithra and topped with honey, is a dessert; however, travel just a bit further west, to Paleohora, and you will find your myzithropitakia will probably be made of the sour xynomyzithra, according to local custom. Whatever you do, don’t leave Crete without partaking in this unique and appetising treat.
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Ela ( 28210 74128; Kondylaki 47; mains €8-18; noon-1am) This 14th-century building was a soap factory, then a school, distillery and cheese-processing plant. Now Ela serves Cretan specialities like goat with artichokes, while musicians create ambience.
Pigadi tou Tourkou ( 28210 54547; Sarpaki 1-3; mains €10-17; dinner, closed Mon-Tue) This former steam bath includes the well for which it is named (Well of the Turk); the tantalising dishes have similar tastes of the orient, inspired by Crete, Morocco and the Middle East.
Apostolis I & II Taverna ( 28210 43470; Akti Enoseos; fish per kilogram up to €65) In the quieter eastern harbour, this two-building psarotaverna is well known for its seafood.
Also recommended is the excellent Amphora restaurant below the hotel of the same name.
Drinking & Entertainment
Clubs lie in Platanias and Agia Marina, 11km west of Hania, though the Old Town has lively bars. Sfrantzia’s small streets hide hip new emerging favourites.
Synagogi ( 28210 96797; Skoufou 15) In a roofless Venetian building and former synagogue, this cool place with dark stone arches is a favourite of young locals.
Fagotto Jazz Bar ( 28210 71877; Angelou 16; 7pm-2am Jul-May) Down inside a restored Venetian building, this cool bar plays jazz and blues. Being indoors, however, it’s busiest in winter.