Greece - Korina Miller [394]
The arty cafe-bar Ta Duo Lux ( 28210 52519; Sarpidona 8; 10am-late) is a favourite with the youths, while the rough-and-ready Café Kriti ( 28210 58661; Kalergon 22; 8pm-late) has live traditional Cretan music.
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HANG ON TO YOUR HATS
One of the most dangerous night-time routes in the Hania area is the 10km road between the city and the popular Platanias resort, with its bars and clubs. Haris, a young Cretan man working as a security guard in Hania Hospital’s emergency room, finds the sight of so many people with terrible injuries being rushed through every day very stressful.
‘Every summer, we have many cases of emergencies, involving both Greeks and tourists, who are brought here after driving motorbikes while drunk,’ says Haris. ‘Just the other day, four English girls were brought here after crashing their bike while returning from the disco – two had severely broken legs.’ Such mishaps, often perhaps avoidable, add to the burden of the already overworked health care system of this small city.
While it would seem like common sense not to jump on a motorbike when intoxicated, in Crete’s summer heat it’s no surprise that many motorcyclists don’t wear their helmets. You won’t be stopped by police for this but a helmet here, as anywhere, might mean the difference between life and death. As Haris remarks, ‘In the worst of these emergency cases, the victim might fall into a coma or even die, because they didn’t wear a helmet. Those are the saddest cases of all.’
So, when preparing to hit the open road on your Cretan vacation, it’s a good idea to remember your helmet. And, if you’ve drunk too much, it won’t kill you to spend €10 on a taxi.
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Shopping
Zambeliou and Theotokopoulou have excellent shopping, with traditional artisans often plying their trade. Skrydlof is ‘leather lane’, and the central market is worth perusing. Hania’s magnificent covered food market ( 9am-5pm Mon & Wed, 9am-8pm Tue, Thu & Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) has an excellent assortment of traditional Cretan food and drink, herbs, meats and veg; the market should be seen, even if you aren’t buying.
Carmela ( 28210 90487; Angelou 7) This exquisite store features original jewellery designs, plus Carmela’s unique ceramics using ancient techniques. It also has jewellery and ceramics by leading Greek artists.
Paraoro ( 28210 88990; Theotokopoulou 16) This functioning workshop features distinctive, decorative metal boats, and some unique ceramics.
Roka Carpets ( 28210 74736; Zambeliou 61) Observe master weaver Mihalis Manousakis at work on his 400-year-old loom, and know you’re buying genuine, handwoven rugs and other items.
Miden Agan ( 28210 27068; www.midenaganshop.gr; Daskalogianni 70; 10am-3.30pm Mon & Wed, 10am-2.15pm & 6.15-10pm Tue & Thu-Sat) Unique ‘house’ wine and liquors, along with over 800 Greek wines, are sold at this smattering of foods shops, which also offers local gourmet delights.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Hania’s airport (CHQ) is 14km east of town on the Akrotiri Peninsula. Flights only go to/from Athens and Thessaloniki. For flight details, Island Hopping.
BOAT
For information on ferries from Hania (serving Piraeus only), Island Hopping. The port police ( 28210 89240) can also provide ferry information.
Hania’s main port is 7km southeast at Souda; frequent buses (€1.15) serve Hania, as do taxis (€8 to €10).
BUS
In summer, buses depart from Hania’s bus station (KTEL; 28210 93052) during the week for numerous destinations. See the table, opposite.
Getting Around
Three daily buses serve the airport (€2.60, 20 minutes); taxis cost €18 to €20.
Local blue buses ( 28210 27044) meet incoming ferries at Souda port, leaving from outside Hania’s food market (€1.30). Buses for western beaches leave from the main bus station.
Halidon has motorcycle-hire outlets, though Agia Marina firms offer competitive rates and can bring cars to Hania. The old town is largely pedestrianised, so find the free parking area near the Firkas Fortress (turn right off Skalidi where the big supermarket car park is signposted, and continue