Greece - Korina Miller [398]
Getting There & Away
BOAT
For boat tickets, see the booths ( 28250 91221) in the car park and on the eastern bluff. In summer, a daily boat serves Paleohora (€11, three hours) via Loutro, Agia Roumeli and Sougia. Four additional boats reach Agia Roumeli (€7.50, one hour) via Loutro (€4, 15 minutes). Summertime boats (€12, 1½ hours) serve Gavdos Island on Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 11.30am.
Local fishermen run water taxis upon request to local destinations like Sweet Water Beach and Loutro, generally from the western harbour; enquire at the taverna below the Xenia Hotel.
BUS
Four daily buses connect Hora Sfakion with Hania (€6.50, two hours), the afternoon ones at 5.30pm and 7pm timed to meet incoming boats from Agia Roumeli. Two daily buses in summer serve Rethymno via Vryses (€6.50, one hour), and two more reach Frangokastello Beach (€1.50, 25 minutes). However, no buses serve Plakias or other points further east of this beach.
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AROUND HORA SFAKION
A bit beyond town, the famous Sweet Water Beach (in Greek, Glyka Nera) has tranquil, lapping waters. Inexpensive taxi boats go there from Hora Sfakion.
Another relaxing escape is Loutro, a former fishing village west of town, and southern Crete’s only natural port. There’s no road, but boats heading west stop there. Merely a collection of white-and-blue domatia glittering around a tiny beach set against mountains, Loutro always maintains its happily isolated feel, even when busy in high summer. For overnights, try the Blue House ( 28250 91127; bluehouseloutro@chania-cci.gr; d from €45; ), with its spacious, well-appointed rooms with sea-facing verandas. The downstairs taverna serves excellent mayirefta (€5 to €8), including local specialities.
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FRANGOKASTELLO ΦΡΑΓΚΟΚΑΣΤΕΛΛΟ
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One of Crete’s best beaches lies just below the equally magnificent 14th-century fortress of Frangokastello, 15km east of Hora Sfakion. The Venetians built it to guard against pirates and feisty Sfakians, who rebelled from the beginning of the occupation. This history has generated a ghastly legend. On 17 May 1828, during the War of Independence, many Cretan fighters were killed here by the Turks. According to legend their ghosts – the ‘drosoulites’ – march along the beach each year on the battle’s anniversary.
The wide, packed white-sand beach beneath the fortress slopes gradually into shallow warm water, making it ideal for kids. On calm days it’s delightful, but when the wind’s up, flying sand will chase you off quickly. There is one shaded cafe on the beach, but it’s otherwise placid.
A few domatia line the main road. Oasis ( /fax 28250 92136; www.oasisrooms.com), on the western side, offers spacious self-catering rooms set in a lovely garden, and its taverna does excellent Cretan dishes (€6 to €10).
Two daily buses from Hora Sfakion reach Frangokastello (€2).
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ANOPOLI & INNER SFAKIA ΑΝΟΠΟΛΗ & ΜΕΣΑ ΣΦΑΚΙΑ
A zigzagging asphalt road winding northwest from Hora Sfakion leads, after 14km, to historic Anopoli (ah-no-po-lee). Now a tiny, sparsely settled village in Sfakia’s stony interior, Anopoli was once prosperous and powerful, and the birthplace of revolutionary leader Ioannis Daskalogiannis. This dashing character, known for his bravery, even hobnobbed with Russian royalty and in 1770 organised the first Cretan insurrection against the Turks. However, the promised Russian reinforcements never came and Daskalogiannis surrendered himself to save his followers; he was skinned alive in Iraklio.
Today a white statue of Daskalogiannis stands conspicuously on Anopoli’s square; here, the heartily recommended Platanos ( 28250 91169; www.anopolis-sfakia.com; mains