Greece - Korina Miller [399]
One such activity is the 1½-hour (3.5km-long) hike to the sea through the Aradena Gorge. The trail is signposted before the bridge leading to Aradena, on the road west from town. Alternatively, you can park in Anopoli and walk 3km to the trail head. The route is moderately difficult, ending at the lovely Marmara Beach. You can return to Anopoli, or go to nearby Loutro and return to Hora Sfakion by boat.
Nonhikers can drive on to Aradena, a small, undisturbed hamlet with a rather precarious wood-and-steel bridge that ripples as you cross it. There are great views into the gorge from here. At the end of the road lies the early Byzantine Church of Agios Ioannis; this whitewashed structure stands serene amidst the stones of Sfakia, but is unfortunately rarely open.
From here, a hiking path leads to the sea, forking either west to Agia Roumeli (via the Byzantine Church of Agios Pavlos, with stunning views), or east to Marmara Beach and Loutro. Before attempting such hikes, however, it’s best to consult local experts (boxed text).
If arriving by public transport, take the bus from Hora Sfakionto Anopoli at 4pm (€3, 30 minutes), which originates in Hania. The morning bus from Anopoli returns to Hora Sfakion at 6.30am, and then continues directly to Hania. Alternatively, taxis between the two cost €20.
For other forays into inner Sfakia, head north from Hora Sfakion on the main road that leads to Vryses. This breathtaking tour passes through the eastern Lefka Ori, with the stunning, 8km-long Imbros Gorge (admission €2) running parallel to the road on the western side. You’ll soon reach the village of Imbros, which accesses this lesser-visited gorge; the trail ends at Komitades village. From here, it’s a 5km walk to Hora Sfakion, or take a taxi (€20).
All Hania–Hora Sfakion buses can stop in Imbros.
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SOUGIA ΣΟΥΓΙΑ
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Sougia (soo-yah), 67km south of Hania and on the ferry route between Hora Sfakion and Paleohora, is a tiny, laid-back beach resort with a curving sand-and-pebble beach. Archaeological remains on its eastern end, which prohibit development, have happily kept Sougia quiet. This sort-of resort has a few rooms, tavernas, lazy beach bars and two beach clubs. Campers and nudists accumulate towards the beach’s eastern end.
Information
The bus stop is outside the Santa Irene Hotel, and there’s an ATM. Internet Lotos ( 28230 51191; per hr €3) works from 7am until late.
Sleeping
Aretousa ( 28230 51178; fax 28230 51178; s/d/studio €35/40/45; ) This lovely, modern pension on the Hania road has comfortable, well-equipped rooms, plus self-catering studios.
Captain George ( 28230 51133; g-gentek@otenet.gr; r/studio/tr €35/40/50; ) Attractive, good value rooms and studios in a lovely garden with a resident kri-kri. The owner runs taxi-boat trips to nearby Lissos and other beaches.
Arhontiko ( 28230 51200; r €40-50; ) Behind the supermarket, Arhontiko has spacious, attractive new studios and apartments – good for longer stays.
Eating
Taverna Rembetiko ( 28230 51510; mezedhes €3-5) This popular place has good Cretan dishes, and great atmosphere with its traditional Greek music.
Polyfimos ( 28230 51343; mains €5-8; dinner) Tucked off the Hania road behind the police station, ex-hippie Yianni makes his own oil, wine and raki and even makes dolmadhes (vine leaves stuffed with rice and sometimes meat) from the vines that cover the shady courtyard.
Getting There & Away
A daily bus operates between Hania and Sougia (€6.10, two hours), while morning boats leave Sougia for Agia Roumeli (€6.30, 1¾ hours), Loutro (€10, 1½ hours) and Hora Sfakion (€11, 1¾ hours). An evening boat at 5.15pm heads west to Paleohora (€7, one hour).
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PALEOHORA ΠΑΛΑΙΟΧΩΡΑ
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There’