Greece - Korina Miller [400]
Although Paleohora gets a few European package tourists, including some families, it’s probably Crete’s most ambivalent resort. You might hear elderly domatia owners chattering in the back streets, asking rhetorically when the tourists will leave and give them back their peace and quiet. In fact, this relatively large town keeps awake during the winter, and is southwest Crete’s unofficial capital.
Orientation & Information
Paleohora lies on a narrow peninsula, with a long sandy beach exposed to the wind on one side, and a sheltered pebbly beach on the other. The main street, Eleftheriou Venizelou, runs north–south. Three ATMs and a laundry are on the main drag. The post office is at Pahia Ammos Beach’s northern end. Boats leave from the old harbour at the beach’s southern end.
Erato Internet ( 28230 83010; Eleftheriou Venizelou; per hr €2)
Notos Rentals ( 28230 42110; www.notoscar.com; Eleftheriou Venizelou; per hr €2; 8am-10pm)
Tourist information office ( 28230 41507; 10am-1pm & 6-9pm Wed-Mon May-Oct)
Sights & Activities
From the elevated ruins of Paleohora’s 13th-century Venetian castle there are great views of the sea and mountains. The castle’s strategic location meant it was frequently attacked over the centuries, and little remains today.
From Paleohora, the E4 coastal path leads to Sougia (six hours), passing remnants of ancient Lissos. Hiking the Samaria and Agia Irini Gorge from Paleohora is possible either through organised tours or the public bus service, returning by ferry.
Dolphin-watching trips (€16) and excursions to Elafonisi Beach (€7, one hour) are offered by travel agencies, like the friendly and helpful Selino Travel ( 28230 42272; selino2@otenet.gr) and Tsiskakis Travel ( 28230 42110; www.notoscar.com; Eleftheriou Venizelou). Both offer the usual travel agency services.
Sleeping
Most accommodation closes in the low season.
Camping Paleohora ( 28230 41120; camp sites per adult/tent €5/3; ) Some 1.5km northeast of town, this is a big but basic camping ground.
Camping Grammeno ( 6978388542; www.grammenocamping.gr; camp sites per adult/tent €6/4; ) This cheery place, 4km from Paleohora on the beach, has excellent facilities including kids’ playground, communal kitchen and barbecue, all backed by a cedar forest.
Homestay Anonymous ( 28230 41509; www.anonymoushomestay.com; s/d/tr €19/23/28; ) There’s excellent value at this small pension with clean, well-furnished rooms with exposed-stone wall decor. Friendly owner Manolis is a font of information on the area. Rooms can connect for families.
Oriental Bay Rooms ( 28230 41076; s/d/tr €30/35/38; ) These immaculate, beachfront rooms are well maintained and fridge-equipped. They have balconies with sea or mountain views.
Votsalo Rooms ( 28230 42369; votsalo@mail.gr; d/apt €35/40; ) Near Kyma Restaurant on Paleohora’s pebble beach, it has simple but clean rooms with relaxing sea views.
Haris Studios ( 28230 42438; www.paleochoraholidays.com; d/apt €45/50; year-round; ) These studios, just around the port on the dramatic rocky seafront, are fairly basic, though the upper rooms are better and enjoy great views.
Eating
The only sad thing about eating in Paleohora and the surrounding area is that, unlike the rest of Crete, the myzithra cheese used here is not usually sweet – remember when ordering.
Grammeno ( 28230 41505; mains €4.50-11) Drive 5km west of Paleohora for no-nonsense Cretan specialities like braised rooster, various wild greens, lamb in vine leaves and tender roast goat.
Dionysos Taverna ( 28230 41243; mains €5-8) Excellent mayirefta, plus vegetarian dishes